• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Kampuchea Crossings

Bump to baby on the beaten expat track

  • Home
  • PORTFOLIO
  • Work Posts
  • Contact

mekong

Escaping a Mekong cityscape for a slice of rural life

10 March 2015 by Nathalie Abejero 21 Comments

Welcome to the March 2015 Carnival of Natural Parenting: Day in the Life

This post was written for inclusion in the monthly Carnival of Natural Parenting hosted by Hobo Mama and Code Name: Mama. This month our participants have given us a special glimpse into their everyday.

***

Escaping the heady concrete jungle of Phnom Penh every once in a while is a necessity for sanity’s sake. Most people take off for the coast on a day or weekend trip, or relax for a few hours in any one of the resorts that now dot the outer sprawl of the city. Last weekend, we visited a friend across the river.

Our oldest has settled into a reasonable sleep cycle (yey!), but our younger one still wakes up at the crack of dawn (groan). Naturally that means we’re all up. Time to open up the house to get air flow and, it being a tropical climate, on weekends the kids will sometimes take their shower outside and that ends up in all-out water play.

_MG_9716 sm20150301_104014 balcony sm copy

Most expatriates have motorbikes or cars, but we like to use tuk tuks within city limits. Ten years ago vehicles were rare and most streets in the capital were unpaved. But now the congestion makes tuk tuks rides less pleasant due to emissions (unregulated), road rage (most people never properly learned how to drive and there are essentially no road rules), and the right of way afforded by type of vehicle (the post-conflict influx of large amounts of aid ensured that progress leans to the well-connected. Today Cambodia boasts a very high number of luxury vehicles per capita, particularly Lexus, and they drive like they own the roads).

17022010298 TukTukCommute sm

The city built many outdoor play and recreation spaces, which the kids enjoy in the mornings before the heat sets in. Large recreational spaces are popular, and replicated in the provincial capitals which are all situated by rivers. Competitions are held every year for the most attractive riverside, with the winning municipality getting more funds for beautification.

09022013704 sm

Coconuts are almost a daily dietary requirement in this tropical heat. It’s nutrient-dense, great for hydration and cheap. These guys pushing loads of coconuts around the city and charge anywhere from 1500-2500Riel (US$0.37-0.62) each.

11012010074 Coconut Vendor sm

The end of the rains when temperatures drop is peak wedding season, disrupting life and traffic everywhere. Like elsewhere, they’re elaborate. Reception halls are a fairly recent concept, and because urban homes tend to be Chinese shop house style (long but narrow), these one- to three-day affairs are usually held in a makeshift “wedding hall” that spill out onto the streets just outside the bride’s home. It’s often a drag if these affairs pop up near the house – because of the noise (chanting starts at 5am!) and backed-up traffic.

14012010091 Khmer Street Wedding sm

I think the National Museum is the most beautiful building in the city, with architecture that is uniquely Khmer (and from which evolved the Thai style). Unfortunately as with any city, these elements from architectural tradition are lost in the race to modernize. A friend lives in a flat overlooking the museum, and for this view alone it’s always a treat to visit him.

P1000155 sm

The next most beautiful structures in the country are those in the Royal Palace. In this picture is the Moonlight Pavilion (ព្រះទីន័ងច័ន្ទឆាយា or Preah Thineang Chan Chhaya). It faces the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong River, and it serves as a stage for classical dance, or as a viewing platform when there are events outside the palace grounds or on the river. (Further down this post is a photo of that pavilion lit up at night.)

IMG_4303 cyclo

Today we were invited to a friend’s house across the river (that’s Phnom Penh in the background). The river crossing takes us past lots of boats, some of which are the homes of the families who trawl for fish. These communities have been displaced repeatedly, as each tract of land they dock to gets developed.

20150222_110138 smWorking into the eveningColorful Cham boat

Our friend found a house for sale in another province; she bought it, then had it taken apart and rebuilt on her property using the same materials and design of the original home. Inside, her husband’s artwork is on display across the walls. The house is traditional in all aspects except the bar and furniture.

20150222_112147 sm20150222_113730 sm20150222_144732 sm

My husband likes to walk around the neighborhoods taking photos, and this is the general reaction to him, below. What is this barang (foreigner) looking at?? Of course, what’s considered typical for them is new and interesting to us – just like the laptop is an everyday fixture for us while the village grandma is transfixed. The 3rd photo below is the traditional way of making textiles, using a loom. Depending on the quality and complexity of design, it can take up to a month for one person (almost always a woman) to make a piece of fabric ~2m x 1m. These will sell in the local markets for around US$25-60.

09042010457 sm21032010416 sm copy09042010464 sm

Cambodia fortunately doesn’t suffer the natural disasters its neighbors face seasonally. There are no earthquakes, tornadoes, nearby volcanoes, tsunamis etc. But during the rains this largely flat country is prone to flooding. So houses are raised on stilts. The space below has multiple uses: farm animals can be fed here, then the area can be used for cooking, sharing meals or napping in the hammocks, and at night the farm animals come back for shelter.

Kratie - Cambodia house

The kids get sugar cane juice before boarding the vessel to head back across the river to Phnom Penh. From this side of the river is a close-up view of the floating villages, and the slow launch of our boat lets the curious watch a slice of life in this often-displaced community.

20150222_110929 sm20150222_110013 smFloating village on the Mekong

Back in Phnom Penh we’re dropped off on the riverside where we take the kids for a walk. Every evening vendors of all manner line the streets (selling fried insects, fruits, balloons, popcorn, kites, etc). Sundowners by the river with a coconut or a nice cocktail, taking in the bustling scenery, are popular. Exercise groups converge here when the sun goes down. Joining an aerobics “class”, moving to modern dance hits, costs ~2000Riel (US$0.50).

14022010292 RoyalPalaceDinnertime sm17012010108 sm_MG_1510 sm

Finally, it’s time for a drink. Cambodia is a popular destination for travelers hitting Southeast Asia, and this week it’s an old friend from college joining us for a drink while the kids run amok. Luckily in this part of the world, it’s the norm to lend helpful hands and watchful eyes on all little ones, regardless whose kids they are. Asia is a fantastic region for families for this cultural fondness for children. It’s hard to imagine things any other way, until we spend time in the US on holiday where the environment for parents with children in tow seems comparatively hostile!

IMG_4151

On the way home, we pass again the more common scenes at night.. the Royal Palace, the National Museum, old colonial mansions. Just outside these compounds, cyclo drivers tuck in for the night.

Royal Palace at nightRoyal Palace at nightNational Museum at night in Phnom PenhColonial Building at night in Phnom PenhCyclos rounded up for the night at National Museum in Phnom Penh

Home! Of course, even if we’ve already eaten, and even if they’re clearly spent after a long day, the kids never fail to plead hunger so they can stay up just a little bit longer..

20150131_185349 sm

***

Carnival of Natural Parenting -- Hobo Mama and Code Name: MamaVisit Hobo Mama and Code Name: Mama to find out how you can participate in the next Carnival of Natural Parenting!

Please take time to read the submissions by the other carnival participants:

  • A Day as Mama and Data Manager — Becca at The Earthling’s Handbook explains what she actually does as data manager of a social science research study, as well as Mama to a baby and a fourth-grader.
  • Pictures of a Day — A photo montage of a typical day in the life of Life Breath Present! You can see how she wakes up and spends her time in quiet, to Baby Boy sleeping at dinner, making natural products, and so much more!
  • Escaping a Mekong cityscape for a slice of rural life — It’s often necessary for Nathalie of Kampuchea Crossings to escape the heady concrete jungle that Phnom Penh is rapidly becoming, for the calmer environment of rural life.
  • Community-schooling — Dionna at Code Name: Mama and her family don’t *home*school, they *community* school!
  • A day in the Life in La Yacata — Read how Survivor and her family at Surviving Mexico Adventures and Disasters spend their Sundays off-grid in rural central Mexico.
  • Day in the Life of the Cole Family — Stoneageparent details the everyday life of her family through twelve photos taken over twelve hours
  • The Days Are Just Packed — Holly at Leaves of Lavender talks about the beauty and simplicity of daily life with a toddler.
  • A Day In The Life of a Heavily Pregnant Naturally Parenting Mama — At 37 weeks pregnant, Sam Vickery of Love Parenting shares her current reality as she naturally parents her four-year-old and awaits her sweet baby.
  • My Life in Pictures on a Random Day — Donna at Eco-Mothering captures a random winter day in Rhode Island through a series of snapshots. What seemed boring at first made her smile in the end.
  • How One Book Inspired Our Whole Day: A Day in the Life — How to plan the whole day with a toddler after reading one book together from Rachael at B is for Bookworm.
  • A day in the life of an unschooling, work-at-home family — Lauren at Hobo Mama shares a picture journey through a typical day with three little homeschooling boys.
  • Day in the Life of a Toddler — From mess making to cleaning up to trying new things, All Natural Katie shows the life of a toddler.
  • Things I have done today (and every other day for the past seven years) — Marija Smits shares what a ‘normal’ day looks like in her crazy world of kids, writing, creativity and household chores!
  • Just Another Wednesday — Lactating Girl at The Adventures of Lactating Girl shares a glimpse into a typical Wednesday in her family’s life.
  • Day in the Life — Dr Sarah at Good Enough Mum gives us glimpses of her life as a British GP and mum.
  • Our days, these days — Dietary restrictions and health issues take a lot of time for Jessica Claire at Crunchy-Chewy Mama, but she still follows her passions and tries to show up for her kids.
  • A (Typical) Day in Our Life — ANonyMous at Radical Ramblings describes a typical day with two kids, eight cats and two dogs.

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: cyclo, mekong, Mekong River, National Museum, Phnom Penh, Royal Palace

Sunset on the Mekong

21 January 2015 by Nathalie Abejero 1 Comment

Lazy days are ahead.. Floating down the river in a converted old rice boat at sunset is one of the best things about these Mekong capitals.

_MG_0251

_MG_0232

Huddling together for the night Colorful Cham boat Working into the evening Floating village on the Mekong

Filed Under: Life, Travels Tagged With: mekong, Mekong capital cities, Mekong River, Phnom Penh

another Mekong sunset

21 May 2010 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

More photos on Keith Kelly’s flickr.

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: mekong, sunset

sunset scenes on the Mekong

7 January 2010 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Time for some pics around town.. who knows how long I’ve got in this beautiful country ;-)

sun setting behind the national museum
the view South down the Mekong, from Chow on the riverside (Sisowath Quay)

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: mekong, National Museum, sunset

New Year’s Eve on the banks of the Mekong

3 January 2010 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Phnom Penh actually got into the festivities, installing a street PA system that counted down to the new year. A bunch of friends and I decided to watch this year’s fireworks from a boat. Naga Casino, Cambodiana and the riverside all set off fireworks. This event was even more special because of the clear skies and a blue moon which coincided with NYs Eve for the first time in 20 years. These were taken with a Nokia e71. Pics aren’t great but they’re ok no?
01012010021-sharp-sm 01012010020-sharp-sm01012010015-sharp-sm 01012010014-sharp-sm

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: fireworks, mekong, new year

Laos: Regional Getaway

3 February 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 2 Comments

Published in AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh, January 2008
More photos from Northern Laos by K Kelly

Because the world has largely ignored this small country, its way of life, and religious and traditional structures have been preserved, creating an old-world charm. With an inviting reception all around, and life carrying on unhurriedly, Laos is sure to be a memorable destination.

With growing interest in the unchartered northern provinces, especially the protected and just recently accessible areas of Luang Nam Tha and Phongsali, exploring a wider range of destinations is now possible through a responsive and well-coordinated tourism sector. Sleep in a tree-house with the gibbons and zipline to breakfast. Or go on a wildlife trek to sight any of the rare species still living in sustainable existence in one of many protected areas.

Activities for getting to and exploring destinations are also increasing, especially for the nature enthusiasts – such as kayaking, mountain climbing and jungle hiking, spelunking, river cruising. The nationally-sanctioned Green Discovery assures optimal match of visitor with location, paying special attention to leaving as small a footprint as possible.

Charms of an Old Capital

Closer to the beaten track it is still possible to capture the essence of Laos. The old capital Luang Prabang boasts a therapeutic pace, insured against the havoc of progress by its World Heritage branding. It is the perfect city for renting a bike (US$1/day). Markets selling precious stones, textiles and handicrafts intersperse with modern cafés, restaurants and bars. Laos has more than a hundred tribal groups, their traditions artfully exhibited in the newly opened Ethnology museum. Home to numerous wats and architectural treasures from centuries gone by, the city is nestled picturesquely at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khang Rivers. A one-hour Laos-style massage, which focuses on pressure points, costs US$5 at the spas, and the shopping strip quadruples in size when the night bazaars open.

Luang Prabang’s central location affords easy access to a robust sampling of the north’s rough country, histories and cultures. Experience a mahout’s working day–unemployed elephants formerly logging the forests now live in retirement sanctuaries nearby. The elephant camp at Xieng Lom will gladly help you assist them.

A journey down the Mekong to Pak Ou Caves is an experience not just for the caves carved into limestone mountains and filled with Buddha statues. Textile, handicraft, and papermaking villages along the way are usually part of the package when arranging transport. Visitors can watch weavers at the loom or peruse finished products at centrally located shops. Their crafts are often a good bargain compared with those in Luang Prabang.

Tribal Textiles Traditions
Textile production is high in Laos, compared to Thailand and Cambodia where the skill is slowly lost to modern pursuits. While pieces with repeating patterns can be mass-produced, those made by hand are beautifully unique. They record the distinct patterning, colours and techniques of the weaver’s tribal affiliation.

There are over a dozen weaving styles and designs, but patterns most recognisable to the inexpert eye comprise figures of the mythical Naga, phoenix, dragons, elephants, and birds in diamond repetitions. To complete a large piece (around 3m x 0.8m), a weaver labours for a dedicated seven days a week for four weeks. These highly-crafted pieces can fetch prices starting at US$150, depending on the intricacy, even higher in Luang Prabang and much higher from abroad or on the internet.

Remnants of War
Not as popular on the tourist trail is the northeastern province of Xieng Khouang on the Vietnamese border where the war history is evident. A striking view of forested mountains and karst formations greets visitors as the plane descends from the clouds. Sadly, scars left by American bombing campaigns pockmark the landscape. It is estimated that more bombs were dropped in Laos than in Germany and Japan combined during World War II.

As in Cambodia, villagers are forced to put a positive spin on it – “The Americans gave us fish ponds.” War relics are used as stilts for the raised dwellings of the H’mong, as fencings and posts, for grill pits and planters. Cluster bomb units hold candles in hotels and restaurants. One woman in Ban Na Pia makes 700 spoons a day by melting down mortar shells that her husband still finds in the fields. She sells them to visitors who watch her work, for 5,000 kip each. A visit to the scrap metal yards reveals the sheer amount of shell casings and bomb fragments traded in daily. Highly risky, finding these munitions is more lucrative than farming, and many do this full-time.

Plain of Jars
In the same province is the archaeological mystery of the Plain of Jars. Believed to be the third and biggest of five sacred sites – the others are in India, China, Malaysia, and Indonesia – bearing technical similarity to each other, they were left by a nomadic group whose ethnic origins are still unknown.

The ones in Laos are carbon-dated to 2,000 BC and documented in China’s manuscripts of the period. They’re also the largest, with one weighing over six tonnes. Remains found alternately inside or underneath the jars imply that after a first burial inside the jar, the bones were later removed and placed in the ground for a second burial. The jars were then filled with the departed’s earthly goods, to ease transition to the nether world.

Three sites have the greatest concentration of jars. The third and most scenic is accessed via a panoramic 20-minute trek through rice fields, farms and pastures. Patience pays off in the stunning views as well as the opportunity to interact with hill-tribe villagers or glimpse into their lives.

Village-hopping

Xieng Khouang is packed with possibilities for exploring traditional livelihoods. Village leaders allow foreigners a guided tour into their communities, in exchange for regular compensation from the government to keep things tidy. Tour guides are often eager to bring foreigners to their village and to show the ways of life of the various hill-tribes.

If visiting the weaving village of (Ban) Xsang be ready for a lively show of Khmou hospitality. Lao lao and fruit are handed round to buy time for neighbours to drop in with their wares. As many as fifteen weavers cram into the wooden hut with bags of their best textiles, ready to compete for potential purchases. Colourful patterns are tossed on the mat for perusal. Soon the pile is nearly a metre high and the weavers are yelling at one another over whose work is better. With lots of laughter and plenty of lao lao, it’s impossible not to enjoy Laos hospitality.

Sunset on the Mekong River
A Luang Prabang sunset on the Mekong

Working on the rice harvest
Chaffing the rice after harvest

Rural life near Plain of Jars (site 3)

Farmer taking a break to humor the tourists :-)

Ladies selling textiles Lao Thoeng (Khmu) village of Na Sala
Textile weavers displaying their best works for visitors

Bomb crater scars viewed from the air upon approach to Phonsavan

The landscape is still scarred by bombs dropped during the secret war.

Herb garden made out half of a cluster bomb casing
Cluster bomb casing planters

Chicken coop using cluster bomb casings as the support post

Bomb casings used as stilts to raise houses

Lady casting spoons at Ban Na Pia (Village)
Melting mortar rounds (still found daily in the fields) to make spoons

Plain of Jars (site 1)
Plain of Jars Site 1, having the most number of jars

Bridge over stream heading toward the Lao Thoeng (Khmu) village of Na Sala
Bridge in Xieng Khouang to the Khmou village Na Sala

More photos from Keith Kelly

 

Other posts on Laos:

Laos at night

Laos: A gastronomic adventure

.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Bomb casings, Cluster bomb casing planters, cluster bomb casings, laos, luang prabang, mekong, mortar rounds, Na Sala, phonsavanh, plain of jars, Plain of Jars Site 1, textile weavers, travel, vientiane, xieng khouang

Primary Sidebar

Those little feet pitter-pattering about rule our lives lately. But on the occasional free moment I get to tap out scatterbrained bursts of consciousness about raising toddlers in Cambodia, traveling with them and working abroad. These posts are my personal updates to friends and family. But since you’re here, have a look around. Thanks for stopping by…

Read More…

Blog Post Categories

  • Interests
  • Life
  • Travels
  • Work

Latest posts

  • Cheers to 2024, an important election year!
  • Some optics on how rapidly technology is changing the world
  • AI note taking tools for your second brain
  • Kids project: Micro-loans to women entrepreneurs
  • I ran the 50th NYC Marathon!
  • Bok l’hong with Margaritas or, memories from the Mekong
  • Getting the kids to like ampalaya (bitter gourd)
  • Gender differences in athletic training

Tags

aid baby Bangkok bush Cambodia christmas coconut covid-19 cuisine delivery development expat expatriate Filipino food food foreign aid holiday hurricane inauguration katrina Khmer Khmer cuisine Khmer food Khmer New Year kids levy louisiana mango Manila medical tourism mekong new orleans nola nyc obama parenthood parenting Philippines Phnom Penh Poipet running Thailand travel US xmas
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Copyright © 2025 · Genesis Sample on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in