• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Kampuchea Crossings

Bump to baby on the beaten expat track

  • Home
  • PORTFOLIO
  • Work Posts
  • Contact

travel

Indonesia: Jogjakarta

14 December 2008 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Yogyakarta is the only province in Indonesia still formally governed by a precolonial Sultanate, the Sultanate of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat. It’s a center of classical Javanese fine arts and culture (batik, ballet, drama, music, poetry and puppet shows). This is a view of Mount Merapi outside our hotel window. It’s been active for 10000 years and today is the most active as well as produces more pyroclastic flows than any volcano in the world.

We started climbing the 345 steps to the Royal Tombs of Imogiri at the same time as this lady, and by the time we were done and ready to come back down she was just barely getting to the top with her load of 2 banana bunches and 6 bottles of water to sell. We bought all she had, exchanged sentences neither party could understand, and then she turned around and walked back down the stairs to fetch more fruits and water for selling.
Durian Montong and Durian Petruk from Purworejo (in Sulawesi), apparently much better than the durians from Sumatra when locals weighed in. It’s a denser texture and is more bitter than the Kampot, Cambodia, durian.
Around the Kraton (Sultan’s Palace) are densely-populated neighborhoods. At various intervals on the streets are these huge hollow ‘bells’. When there’s a fire or danger, the nearest bell is rung, and those hearing it down the street will ring theirs, and on and on. They’re painted in bright colors, much like the whimsical painted fish in Philadelphia and cows in Chicago for public arts.
A musician from Kraton (Sultan’s Palace) with a Kris in his belt. Apparently this dagger (which is not symmetrical) is indigenous to Indonesia, Malaysia, southern Philippines. It’s both a weapon and a spiritual object, with each bearing either good or evil essence.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: indonesia, jogjakarta, kraton, mount merapi, royal tombs of imogiri, travel

Indonesia: Borobudur

14 December 2008 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Borobudur is a ninth-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in Central Java. It’s got six square platforms topped by three circular levels, decorated with 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues in various poses. Pilgrims begin their 3/4 mile journey by entering the eastern staircase. This base, or Kamadhatu, symbolizes where human beings are still bound by lust. They then walk clockwise around the galleries and up. Each level progresses towards enlightenment, with lower levels depicting bas reliefs of life on earth, with the range of sins of mankind. A guide is about 50000Rupiah (12300Rupiah/$1 at this time), and it’s well worth it.
Elaborate gateways to the next levels are guarded by the fearsome beast Kala. Each level up represents the journey towards enlightenment.
The upper four stories are called Rupadhatu, symbolizing human beings that have set themselves free from lust but still bound to appearance and shape.
The upper three terraces with Buddha effigies inside perforated domes are called Arupadhatu, symbolizing human beings freed from lust and earthly form. The top part is called Arupa, symbolizing nirvana, where Buddha resides.
For lack of an eagle’s eye angle we can take ourselves, this is a model of Borobudur, taken at the museum at the base when we returned back to the world of sin and hedonism.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Borobodur, Borobudur, travel

Indonesia: Wayang Kulit

14 December 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 1 Comment

Wayang Kulit (wayang=show, kulit=skin, as in the leather the puppets are made of) is a type of shadow puppet theatre from the Indo-Malay archipelago. Its Javanese Hindu-Buddhist tradition has its origins in India. Hand-crafted leather puppets depict epic stories of the gods in shadow play.
This artist was prepping the puppet show, at the Museum Sonobudoyo (Javanese archeology museum) on Jalan Trikora 6 at north alun-alun. The puppets are usually made of buffalo or goat hide and mounted on bamboo sticks. The best puppets are made of young female water buffalo parchment with curing time of almost ten years.
A traditional Gamelan orchestra would accompany the story-telling. Their typical repertoire include an overture, travel and battle music, and character pieces.
The next photos are of musicians playing their Gamelan instruments, preparing for the same puppet theatre at Kraton (Sultan’s Palace). This first instrument is a Bonang and the one below is a Saron Demung, followed by a better photo of that instrument in red.

This musician was playing the Kenong, the next down is a Bonang, and the third is the setup behind the stage where Sinden singers are practicing.
Most shadow play is based on two epic stories from India – the Mahabarata and its sister work, the Ramayana. The Balinese and Javanese combined the Hindu stories with Buddhist and Muslim elements as well as their own folklore.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: balinese, Bonang, Gamelan, indonesia, javanese, keong, kraton, Museum Sonobudoyo, ramayana, Saron Demung, travel, Wayang Kulit

Indonesia: Making Batik

13 December 2008 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Batik is a resist dye technique with hundreds of years’ history in Java. Since I wasn’t with K when someone showed him how to batik, here’s the general gist as I know it:
A natural light-colored cloth is used to make batiks (synthetics or blends won’t work). A rough sketch is made on the cloth as in the first photo. Then you paint wax on top of the areas you do not want to dye. This woman uses a tool sort of like a crude fountain(?) pen to take the dye to the areas she’s drawn. When the paint has absorbed into the cloth it is allowed to dry, then a hot water bath is used to melt off the wax.
Here’s the finished product. It’s a very thin cloth so it’s beautiful framed with light shining from behind, such as daylight or if indoors then a frame with an embedded lamp. I love bright designs, but this region (Jogyakarta)’s color palette consists of the varying shades and tones of brown.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: batik, indonesia, java, travel

Hong Kong harbor at night

5 December 2008 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment


—————- and in the daytime, other things memorable about Hong Kong:
We didn’t spend too long there to really get a feel for the city. We had consistently dramatic sky/lines at sunset, courtesy of the ever-present smog. It’s a great shopping destination, and has a vibrant culture and arts scene. What’s visually distinctive about HK is the immense billboards advertising anything and everything–EVERYwhere. Even on the harbor, the skyline’s marred by monstrous advertising signs on buildings. Back home it’s like something’s lost when a stadium was

But I love the food, and the gamut is available here for any price range. We ordered blind usually, having absolutely no idea what anything was and unable to communicate with the super friendly waitstaff beyond hand gesturing about something swimming (meaning fish) or flapping arms (meaning duck or chicken. we think.). Tastes here were a little on the intense side– not heat so much as strong spices.
The bird park is an early morning curiosity. The tiniest, most fragile little cages with colorful bright birds get walked by their male owners (no women were walking their birds) for a little bit of fresh air. It’s an interesting sight –so many people with their cages of small animals, comparing and showing off their creatures.
And this was just a cool photo of a koi(?) in one of the restaurants’ ponds.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: bird park, Hong Kong, Hong Kong harbor, travel

Kuala Lumpur: Culinary destination!

5 December 2008 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

KL is one of my favorite places to pass through. As in most Asian countries, legislation aims to protect the dominant native population against immigrant ethnic influence, sometimes to disastrous effects, and constantly keeping its politics on edge. This charged convergence of ethnic and religious mixes (it was my best introduction to the rich history and diversity of Islam) is what–to me, as a tourist–makes Malaysia such a fascinating destination.

And this is where I have always the best food experience! This time we had a true foodie take us around. Malaysia is a premiere culinary destination in SE Asia, and boasts a confluence of truly powerful taste sensations, blending many ethnic influences: Indo-, Malay-, and Chinese. Many thanks to Honey Ahmad, of the acclaimed food network Fried Chillies!

First some bahasa 101 (applies also in Indonesia):
Rice- Nasi
Fried- Goreng
Squid- Sotong
Fish- Ikan
Grilled- Bakar
Chicken- Ayam
Meat- (Daging- we usually use daging for beef as well)
Mutton- Kambing
Bread- Roti
Red- Merah
Black- Hitam

This is Indian cooking, usually places like this are called ‘mamak’ which
means Indian Muslim because they usually have corner 24-hour eating places that serve the usual curries, rice, roti etc. This particular dish is sotong goreng with some fried cabbage (kobis). Mutton curry is very common.
This is an Indian/ Mamak eatery, where the dishes are set out behind a glass counter. In the Philippines we call it a turo-turo (point-point, because you point at the dishes you want). Fish curry, ayam masak merah (chicken in red sauce/ tomato), and a squid curry and chicken in black sauce (ayam hitam).
Grilled stingray (pari bakar). A usual grilled fish place will be called ikan bakar. That sauce which comes with it is usually chillies, soya sauce and tamarind juice (a variation of these basic ingredients). We call it air assam (sour water is the literal translation).

Another meal that we had was Nasi Kandar (rice and curries and fried stuff). It’s usually the domain of Indian Muslims. Kandar means ‘to carry’ usually with the shoulder. IN the old days Nasi Kandar sellers will carry a long pole with rice and drinks on one side and dishes balancing it on the other side. A noodle dish they have is Mee Rebus.

What I don’t have a picture of and wish I did: The small dishes of chili that come with long beans and cucumbers, called sambal belacan (made of pounded chilies, fermented prawn paste– belacan, and a squeeze of lime). This is a condiment Malays eat with everything and make all sorts of variation from, eg sambal belacan with fermented durians or mangos etc…
If you can get past the requisite brightly-colored plastic tableware, there’s a lot to discover about Malaysian cuisine!

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: ayam hitam, ayam masak merah, bahasa, Fried Chilies, goreng, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, mamak, mee rebus, nasi, nasi kandar, travel

  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Go to page 1
  • Go to page 2
  • Go to page 3
  • Go to page 4
  • Go to page 5
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Go to page 7
  • Go to Next Page »

Primary Sidebar

Those little feet pitter-pattering about rule our lives lately. But on the occasional free moment I get to tap out scatterbrained bursts of consciousness about raising toddlers in Cambodia, traveling with them and working abroad. These posts are my personal updates to friends and family. But since you’re here, have a look around. Thanks for stopping by…

Read More…

Blog Post Categories

  • Interests
  • Life
  • Travels
  • Work

Latest posts

  • Cheers to 2024, an important election year!
  • Some optics on how rapidly technology is changing the world
  • AI note taking tools for your second brain
  • Kids project: Micro-loans to women entrepreneurs
  • I ran the 50th NYC Marathon!
  • Bok l’hong with Margaritas or, memories from the Mekong
  • Getting the kids to like ampalaya (bitter gourd)
  • Gender differences in athletic training

Tags

aid baby Bangkok bush Cambodia christmas coconut covid-19 cuisine delivery development expat expatriate Filipino food food foreign aid holiday hurricane inauguration katrina Khmer Khmer cuisine Khmer food Khmer New Year kids levy louisiana mango Manila medical tourism mekong new orleans nola nyc obama parenthood parenting Philippines Phnom Penh Poipet running Thailand travel US xmas
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Copyright © 2025 · Genesis Sample on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in