• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Kampuchea Crossings

Bump to baby on the beaten expat track

  • Home
  • PORTFOLIO
  • Work Posts
  • Contact

Nathalie Abejero

Happy Burfday America!!

5 July 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

_MG_1645 me sm fuzz by you.

Cheers from this side of this rock’s molten core! I was decidedly NOT too enthused about joining an event where Americans by the thousands gather at the American Embassy to celebrate this American holiday. (Seems like putting a bull’s eye on ya, eh?)

But it was ok! We were safe! North Korea even kicked the celebrations off with dud scuds all throughout the morning (A for Effort!). And sheesh the number of Americans in Phnom Penh always astounds me :-)

_MG_1434 girls sm by you.

Naturally I was there on task for the Democrats Abroad Cambodia. I was politically unaffected throughout the election season of two years until Sarah Palin grabbed the VP nomination and ended John McCain. Our little Cambodia team kicked butt of all DA groups all over the world with 100x our budget and number of expatriates. We rock, dude! And Americans abroad? You rock, cuz your votes gave the Dems six seats, plus handed the presidency to Obama!
Actually, more accurately: the vote-from-abroad reforms that were put into place in time for POTUS elections 2008 allowed overseas ballots to be counted from the get-go instead of placing them in a pile to be opened ONLY if a tie needed to be broken! We have a great team, and even though I’m not a Democrat I’m happy to work with them to change some things that adversely affect American expatriates.

_MG_1480 nat DA sm by you.
4th of July Party at the US Embassy by you.
_MG_1550 corndogs sm by you.

This is the first time I’ve ever had a corndog can you believe it? The Embassy special-imported these from the US. I now know why I never bothered to try them in the first place :-)

_MG_1768 stage sm by you.

Keith’s basketball buddy here onstage rallying the crowd. That was an awesome crowd (over 1500!). Great event, good to get in touch with Americana. Got my homesickness over with for a little while :-)

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: 4th July, America, Independence Day, July 4, US

Preah Vihear UNESCO World Heritage Site

1 July 2009 by Nathalie Abejero 4 Comments

Since D was here, we thought we’d take that trip to the border temple that Keith and I have wanted to see. Thailand tends to have dispute with UNESCO over the World Heritage status of the temple and award of the grounds to Cambodia (it’s a disputed land area on the border) whenever they are having domestic political turmoil. It is pre-Angkorian, so it predates Angkor Wat. Because it’s a conflict area restoration has been on hold and there are very few foreigners who come to this mountaintop ruin. You essentially put yourself between the Cambodian troops and the Thais when you visit this place.
Preah Vihear is 4hrs from Siem Reap (Angkor Wat), which is 5hrs from Phnom Penh. About an hour out of Siem Reap the paved road ends. If it’s raining, your driver better be damn good! Even SUVs are useless when you can’t maneuver the car. It is almost like driving in deep snow.
Thankfully there wasn’t any rain when we arrived at Preah Vihear. It’s a steep climb up a now-paved road on this mountain, so you need a four-wheel drive. Needless to say, it isn’t smooth. I still have some bruises. At one point there were about nine of us crammed into the bed of the pickup truck. D and I held on for dear life smack in the middle of the bed while seasoned soldiers sat on the edge casually hanging on, laughing at us.
At the top, you’re hard-pressed to find signs of conflict. The ruins are overrun by soldiers- surreal. There are Khmer tourists wandering about like the place hadn’t been pelted with shells only recently. No foreigners (namely, no busloads of package tourists from Japan, Korea, China, and Europe), so that was VERY nice!
Hmm.. Look at that concentrated gray coming out of the side of my head over the parietal lobe. Maybe I did too much math in grad school [scratches head].
That is Preah Vihear town below. Follow that road right (southeast?) and it leads to Ang Long Veng, a very historic city where Pol Pot also is buried. There’s nothing out in these parts, so accommodations are slim and very bare / basic.

Some of the soldiers look like little kids. They aren’t allowed off the mountain. When we came back down they searched our vehicle for stowaways.
_MG_1072 by you.






See this guy’s grenade? I pointed at it, was thinking that pin looks could get popped easily off. But it is ok, I was told it is secure. There is a rubber band holding it in, and he handed it to me. Heavy. The rubber band? You know when those things get old and start to dry up brittle? I thought we’d best leave soon..

Long day, but a great time. :-) If you can make it out here while the troops are still around it’s a great time. They’re awesome hosts. They even let you hold their weapons. Strange to be handling these loaded guns, rockets, grenades etc. At the end you give the soldiers some small cash so they can buy cigarettes.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Cambodia, Preah Vihear, travel, UNESCO, World Heritage Site

around the ‘hood with a visiting friend

30 June 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Here’s my street, we live a block off the Royal Palace. It’s everyday scenes like this that you never bother to take photos of until a friend comes along and captures everything you don’t blink twice over anymore. To the left is a tuk-tuk, riding the line to his left and back is what they call here a cyclo, and practically most people travel by some form of motorbike here.
Every day monks walk around the neighborhood collecting alms (this is one of the stores downstairs). Since the Khmer Rouge decimated the elder ranks, the religion’s influence has not gained its previous legitimacy and credibility. Respect for monks and the solidarity they fostered before the conflict era have been largely eroded.
Time for some tours around the city! This is what I get when a journalist friend is visiting. LOTS of photos of me. And yes, I know these huge sunglasses are horrible fashion bombs, but they’re great for tuk-tuk riding cuz short of goggles they keep everything out of your eyes!
The Independence Monument Plaza, view from Sothearos Blvd. See the cranes in the background? Phnom Penh is under constant construction. sigh.
D was an inspiration to me long ago with her wanderlust. Everyone back then thought she was a nut (me too, secretly!). Of course now we both envy our friends the stability of life and family and community when our lives are anything but. But connecting in different parts of the globe once in a while brings us back to what matters and what brought us out on these paths in the first place.
In a city growing up so fast, these bicycle vendors selling kids’ toys brings memories of olden days. They’re still numerous on the city streets, particularly where people like to gather at night in the new plazas.
Those of you who saw City of Ghosts (2002) with Matt Dillon might recognize this guy. Ian ‘Snowy’ Woodford is an old fixture in the Phnom Penh ‘hoods from the UNTAC days. He’s now running a bar / gallery across the Tonle River from the city.
The Phnom Penh skyline! Naturally you must have a healthy imagination to see it ;-) D and I rented a boat ($16/2hrs) and cruised the Tonle River. Brought a bottle of wine and some desserts. I always forget to look up at the night sky whenever I’m in cities. PP is sufficiently small that you can get a glimpse of some stars. But out on the river- wow.

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: Cambodia, Phnom Penh, toys, travel

BudLite Presents: Real Men of Genius. . . Today we salute YOU Mr. . . . .

23 April 2009 by Nathalie Abejero 1 Comment

. . . Asian Correspondent Extraordinaire!!!

[♫ in the background] While correspondents coagulate on the beaten path, you strut the high- the low- and parlous track. Remote bird flu hot zones, bullet-ridden conflict areas—- the very bowels of hell itself!!—- You have conquered them all, with stealth by your side and twinkle in your eyes. Because of you, o mad-dog maverick bandit traversing the ruthless Indochine geography, adventures in pandemic scourges and war know no bounds. (You take my breath away) Who is Nirmal? Who cares? Lordy Lordy have mercy, it is imperialism on the nomen nudum scale!! So, crack open an ice cold Bud Light, o Marauder of the Landmasses, and don’t wander too far from your fantasies of Nirmalian imperialism, because your greatness is ever so inspiring!!!!

Today we salute YOU, Mr. ASIAN SUBCONTINENT CORRESPONDENT EXTRAORDINAIRE!!!!

♫ Reeeeal men of geeeeeniouuuus!!!! ♫

Note:
I came across this old email and had to post it for nostalgia’s sake. I’d written it in jest to the BudLite ad track many years ago for Nirmal Ghosh. He was my first and only friend here in Asia for a short while when I first landed in Bangkok. I was staying with an old friend Doualy Xaykaothao who’s a reporter for NPR, but she promptly traipsed off to chase a story too soon after I landed, and I was alone in her Bangkok pad. She introduced me to her friend and colleague Nirmal, and he smoothed the bumps of transition to SE Asia! Great friends, both of them. And it doesn’t hurt that both can create art out of the written and spoken word. Inspires me silly, these guys!

I completely forgot about it until just now, cleaning out my email boxes. Oh memories… Love you guys.
.

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: correspondent, humor, Nirmal Ghosh, writing

THIS just in: We interrupt this regularly scheduled rioting for…

15 April 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment


LOL this last entry in Nirmal Ghosh’s live-blogging on 14 Apr 2009 upon the Red Shirt leader’s call for an end to the protests:


The reds are dispersing, to rousing music and dousing each other with water to celebrate Songkran. A potentially disastrous situation has been averted.


The Songkran Festival was extended two days, for “cleanup”. [[Straight face: pelt water not tear gas! Smirk, enter stage right.]]] … Kum.ba.ya.my.lord… kum.BA.YAAA…


Thaksin vs the King?


Ousted PM Thaksin Shinawatra

The Yellow Shirts are advocating for a roll-back of “democracy”. From Der Speigel, The King’s Silence (09 Dec 2008):


The airport occupiers and their supporters (Yellow Shirts) are revolting against a democratically elected government whose political base consists of the poor rice farmers of northeastern Thailand. They are leading the fight for a middle-class minority with allegiance to the king and pro-military views, which calls itself the “revolution of the middle class.” If it comes into power, it will do away with democracy and allow only one-third of the representatives of the people to be elected by the people. This comes as no surprise, given the fact the representatives of this segment of society lost the last four elections….

… More and more Thais wonder what the king’s silence means. Could it be a sign of division within the royal family? Queen Sirikit was once spotted at the funeral of a member of the opposition. The Reds, however, hope that the king himself is on their side — that of the poor.


This time Thaksin outright called for the Red Shirts (pro-Thaksin majority rural poor) to dissolve the country into a revolution, and levied accusations against the Privy Council, advisors to the King, for their part in the 2006 coup. Red Shirts rallied behind this call, rushing the parliament house and by the hundreds of thousands incited violent clashes throughout Bangkok and the country. From The Economist, A Right Royal Mess (08 Dec 2008):


The rage of Bangkok’s traditional elite against Mr Thaksin stems partly from embarrassment at having originally supported him…

… Some of Mr Thaksin’s voters must be contemplating the flip-side of the PAD’s (yellow shirts) argument: if the monarchy is against the leader they keep voting for, maybe it is against them. Such feelings may only be encouraged by the PAD’s condescending arguments that the rural poor (Mr Thaksin’s main support base) are too “uneducated” to have political opinions, so their voting power must be reduced.


King Bhumibol Adulyadej

Thailand is experiencing the deep social and ideological divides of a feudal society’s transformation into a modern democracy. The crown’s role as a stabilizing factor in the country’s politics faces its greatest challenge yet. King Bhumibol is widely worshipped as god-like. He facilitated the country’s transition to democracy and has used his considerable influence to arbitrate during periods of political turmoil.


But the crown’s legitimacy may soon see an end, as the King’s health is quickly deteriorating and the next in line for the throne has no command of the hearts of his people. Heir Prince Vajiralongkorn of the patrilineal monarchy lacks the current King’s compassion and devotion to duty, and his suitability for the throne is consistently questioned. One wonders what is in store for Thailand, long the region’s beacon of stability.


Effects on Cambodia?

Regional proverb: When elephants fight, the grass is trampled.

.

Filed Under: Interests, Life Tagged With: King Bhumibol, Red Shirts, redshirts, Thailand, Thaksin, Thaksin Shinawatra, Yellow Shirts, yellowshirts

Where is Khmer culture going?

11 April 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Terminalnomad Photography

With such rapid pace of progress, Cambodia eagerly embraces a bright future. That’s the upside. What’s disheartening is that it’s a future that chases inspiration externally– specifically from the West, while rejecting its own rich legacy and heritage.

Silence about the Khmer Rouge period

With the KR trials commencing, spotlight is on the reaction of the Khmer population. But collective suppression of this period in history is the prevailing practice. Even the international community avoids the issue: aid funding for mental health has been nil, despite numerous requests and rampant indication of need. What little dialogue is had about tribunal activities is mostly aimed at foreigners and international scholars, researchers, interns.

Khmer kids have not an inkling of the import of the Khmer Rouge period. It’s not taught in school, barely mentioned in the home, and no discourse is had in the public sphere. To be ignorant of it is one thing, but I was shocked on arrival that my new friends flat-out deny these atrocities ever even occurred. They say it’s just old people talking to scare them… Here Seth Mydans reports on how Cambodia’s youth know little about the Khmer Rouge atrocities (NYT):

Some older people get so upset at their children for not believing that they say, ‘I wish the Khmer Rouge time would happen again; then you’d believe it,’ Mr. Ty Leap said.

Thought leaders, influencers and the professional cadres were largely eliminated during the KR period, true. But a complete dismantling of the Khmer social infrastructure is reinforced by this large-scale avoidance of the topic. It is a rift, chasm, disconnect that winds and rends through the entire fabric of Khmer society.

Frayed social networks

For thousands of years Buddhism has been the pillar of social cohesion– a vanguard of Khmer culture and moral authority in matters of social and even political affairs. But the abbots’ and monks’ relevance has deteriorated, largely from decimation of the top ranks of the Buddhist order. This left a fragmented social system and a void, at a time it is most needed.

We’re witnessing the extinction of many art forms, from music to fine arts, with little local advocacy. Such cultural expressions usually boom after conflict periods; it is part of a society’s healing process to document memories. But the arts are unsupported, even from the royal family, many of whom including the King are gifted artists. This point is very telling by itself. The royal family does not reside in-country, and the King is (was?) a dance professor in France who spends little of his life here. What better way to convey the message to your people that Khmer culture is sub-par than to abandon the very channels for social expression.

My colleague’s father was a renowned painter prior to the Khmer Rouge period, and his works hang in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. Thoroughly impressed, K requested an interview. Her response? His art is so old, why would he be interested in it when she can introduce him to more exciting contemporary artists instead. She was sure to add that good artists have had training in the West or from Westerners– her father “only” knew Angkorian style.

These are just a few instances of the absence of pride among Khmer for anything Cambodian.

Foreigners’ role in advocating Khmer culture

The generations after the KR only ever knew to aspire to the whims of endless armies of westerners bringing our ideas to them, experimenting on a societal scale at will and for the most part unchecked. Khmers are conditioned to worship the power of the dollar. They’re exposed to and want the excesses they see on the pirated Hollywood blockbusters: fast cars, fast money, throwaway relationships, soundbyte politics and a consumption lifestyle– all a complete flip of the essence of Cambodian philosophy towards life. China, India, Thailand, etc, have all chosen to embrace modernity. But their quest for progress is continuously negotiated against the substance of their cultural identity. Khmers seem not to have this.

Instead of coming from within, foreigners (for lack of elder Khmer mentors) are showing the youth what’s cool about their own Khmer culture. Through the filters of foreign taste, Khmer are learning to appreciate the finer elements of their own traditions. The context is displaced, disconnected, inorganic.

For me, growing up in the US, I was taught the essence of my Filipino heritage in the home, and learned my new country’s cultural nuances through social situations. Most of us have the luxury of this foundation from which to forge our identity, whichever direction that may go. I reject some Filipino and American traditions on the basis that I had grasp of the context. Cambodian kids are given little context from which to move forward.

So what’s in store for Cambodian culture?

Mentors from within the country are still few relative to the boomer population post-KR, but this cadre is steadily growing, (thankfully) embracing their Khmer identity and taking the lead to advocate for it. Ever so slowly, foreigner guidance will give way to this new generation of elders. But it’ll take entire lifetimes. In the meantime, a cultural schizophrenia guides the direction of progress in Cambodia…

Filed Under: Interests, Life Tagged With: Cambodia, culture, Khmer, Khmer Rouge, mental health

  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Go to page 1
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Go to page 40
  • Go to page 41
  • Go to page 42
  • Go to page 43
  • Go to page 44
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Go to page 63
  • Go to Next Page »

Primary Sidebar

Those little feet pitter-pattering about rule our lives lately. But on the occasional free moment I get to tap out scatterbrained bursts of consciousness about raising toddlers in Cambodia, traveling with them and working abroad. These posts are my personal updates to friends and family. But since you’re here, have a look around. Thanks for stopping by…

Read More…

Blog Post Categories

  • Interests
  • Life
  • Travels
  • Work

Latest posts

  • Cheers to 2024, an important election year!
  • Some optics on how rapidly technology is changing the world
  • AI note taking tools for your second brain
  • Kids project: Micro-loans to women entrepreneurs
  • I ran the 50th NYC Marathon!
  • Bok l’hong with Margaritas or, memories from the Mekong
  • Getting the kids to like ampalaya (bitter gourd)
  • Gender differences in athletic training

Tags

aid baby Bangkok bush Cambodia christmas coconut covid-19 cuisine delivery development expat expatriate Filipino food food foreign aid holiday hurricane inauguration katrina Khmer Khmer cuisine Khmer food Khmer New Year kids levy louisiana mango Manila medical tourism mekong new orleans nola nyc obama parenthood parenting Philippines Phnom Penh Poipet running Thailand travel US xmas
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Copyright © 2025 · Genesis Sample on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in