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Cambodia

Day Trip from Phnom Penh to Phnom Oudong

12 March 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

This trip was a 50minute motorbike ride to the outskirts of Phnom Penh on a very hot Sunday. This is a typical panoramic view of Cambodia in the North-South region Siem Reap – Sihanoukville: flat as a pancake dry and dotted with palm and coconut trees, etc. Elevations are revered spots and wats (pagodas) are usually constructed on top of them.

These images of Buddha in various interpretations are not for idolising, such as Christians worship the images of the God. These images aim to inspire the appropriate mode of behaviour towards the personal achievement of enlightenment. It is an admired philosophy, especially during these modern fast-paced times, but its lack of appreciation for personal gains contributes to the detriment of Asian society (values?) in an age of materialism and the pursuit of wealth.

I have no idea what kind of turtles these are, but a lot of them are classified ‘threatened’ in Cambodia. We were taken once to a restaurant in Kampot Province, where the walls were lined with WWF and conservancy posters. Obviously it’s illegal to hunt those animals on the posters, but enforcement capacity is low. They were the menu offerings, but only hush hush. If officials came through the door the establishment is upholding the law.
No shortage of cutesy shots in the third world. Sadly this is exploited and children are sometimes harmed in order to garner more sympathy and thus more money from foreigners.

At wats around the country there are soothsayers who will read palms, feet, sticks, and tea leaves. Philosophies about fate and destiny are major factors why the region has not lived to its full capacity in the past several centuries compared to the West.
This woman makes 3 baskets in one day. Then sells each basket for 1000 Riel (25 cents) for a small one, or 3000 Riel (75 cents) for a big one the size of a cantaloupe. I can never look at the handicrafts in a Pier1 store ever again, since coming out to Asia.
The prize part of a crab is the fat inside the shell. Here they are sold by a vendor at the market. These are river crabs, small enough to fit nicely in a child’s hand. The shell / fat is sold for 600 Riel (~24 cents) and the whole crab for 1000 Riel (25 cents).


There were probably five mosques on the way to Oudong from Phnom Penh, which surprised us. Muslims make up 10% of Cambodia’s population, the largest group after Buddhists, but they’re largely concentrated in Kampot and Kampong Cham (Cham is the Khmer word for Muslim). Saudi Arabia finances the building of mosques here. Their presence has been slowly increasing, since the finding of oil off Cambodia’s coasts.

All photos from Keith A Kelly‘s photostream.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Cambodia, Oudong, Phnom Oudong, Phnom Penh, travel

Scene in Phnom Penh

10 March 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

My view from the treadmill at the gym. Running east towards the Mekong River (which is at the top of this photo) is Sihanouk Blvd. Independence Monument, commemorating the war dead and independence from colonial rule (France) in 1953, is at the intersection with Norodom Blvd. The parks on either side of the monument are hubs of activity.

The street grid under French rule composed of wide main boulevards lined with trees. Fortunately the not-so-often wise leadership decided that this is an asset. The municipality has recently begun a spate of beautification projects around the city, making medians more inviting and family-friendly like this one. It’s part of a wider effort at attracting tourism, as most visit the country for just three days– all three of which is spent in Siem Reap’s Angkor Wat archeological zone.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Cambodia, Independence Monument, Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh, Sihanouk Blvd, travel

Websites for Khmer Rouge tribunal updates

10 March 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

A few people have asked for some news feeds of the proceedings, now that the Khmer Rouge tribunal has finally begun. Here are some blogs, news coverage and expert commentaries on the Extraordinary Chamber in the Courts of Cambodia (ECCC):

Cambodia Tribunal Monitor, with webcasts of the proceedings and video commentaries, by Western legal and academic experts on the Khmer Rouge or Genocide.

Ka-set is the Khmer-ization of the French word for newsmagazine. This news website aims to promote quality journalism, and is a project started by four journalists (Cambodian, French and Belgian), affiliated with Cambodge Soir (French-language newspaper in Phnom Penh), in 2007.

Documentation Center of Cambodia is a rights group advocating for greater access to information.

From the Phnom Penh Post (the English language newspaper of Phnom Penh) is the Khmer Tribunal Report, a blog on progress at the ECCC.

This is the official site of the Extraordinary Chamber of the Courts in Cambodia (ECCC), in English, Khmer and French. Unfortunately it is down quite often (but that may just be for connections in Cambodia).

And here is the controversial website of Ieng Sary’s defense. It fuels debate about confidentiality in the UN-backed court. Ieng Sary was the former Khmer Rouge’s Foreign Minister.
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Filed Under: Interests, Life Tagged With: Cambodia, ECCC, Ieng Sary, Khmer Rouge, Tribunal

logo redesign

9 March 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

The new and much improved logo for NIPH (National Institute for Public Health):

It’s a vast improvement over the old one, which I cannot find a trace of anywhere now to take a good photo of it (I’d burn all instances of it too if I were the director!):

This is the main building in the NIPH compound. I can’t tell you how happy I am not to have to see that silly-looking smiley face logo whenever I walked into the office!

The German-Cambodian Technical Cooperation supported the NIPH since 1996 and now it’s aiming for accreditation as a higher learning institution. It’s a long process, so for now NIPH is seeking accreditation to national standards (these criteria not yet defined in Cambodia), then down the road (way down the road) is international accreditation.

Filed Under: Work Tagged With: Cambodia, design, logo, NIPH

Dialogue and the Khmer Rouge tribunals

9 March 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Photo courtesy of the Far Eastern Economic Review, article cited below.

One of the recurrent topics at a meditation group in Boeng Keng Kang with some teens is the culpability of the Khmer Rouge soldiers. The KR period is not a dialogue that younger generations born after the atrocities actively engage in. It’s a concern of many advocates and the international community here that some young adults are ignorant of the fact that it ever even occurred. There are several factors at work.

One is that while a lot of aid is allocated to feel-good causes taxpayers back home like, eg HIV, private sector development, democratisation, conservation etc, there is little committed to other needs, like mental health. It just isn’t sexy enough. So despite the high prevalence of PTSD (so soon post-conflict), the advocacy and attention given this problem and opening a greater dialogue or forum has no momentum.

Another complaint, which has been gaining more voice, is the lack of efforts to educate Khmers on the significance and progress of the KR tribunal. The tribunal finally began after years of setbacks and conflicts. But for many, it’s almost as if the trials are a matter of course rather than for the benefit of the Khmers. There’s no shortage of interns, academics and legal aids pouring into the country from abroad, each coming with high fees and expenditures. But to host townhall meetings, debates or panels?– the efforts are sparse.

It’s truly a wasted opportunity. Khmers emerged from this period with a cultural identity crisis. The country is caught up in a rapid development pace that even this global crisis won’t impact as much as other countries of similar development stage. Teens affiliate more with “western” culture than with their own, in the quest to modernise and westernise as quickly as possible, while elements of their heritage and traditions are increasingly lost.

The meditation group (impressively) discussed the culpability factor, when executioners are under orders on threat of a gruesome death themselves. And to see these kids crying after being told (by foreigners) of the facts of their history that their elders won’t discuss with them (understandably to a certain level).. it’s unsettling.

Recently these articles appeared in the NY Times that addressed this culpability issue. How do you mete out justice to the pee-ons while elements of the Khmer Rouge still sit in the current administration?
Trials in Cambodia Expose the Cogs in a Killing Machine
At Trial, a Plea for Rights of a Khmer Prison Official.

Locally, thanks in part to people like Chea Vanthan and arts communities like at Meta House, there has been increased advocacy to engage young people in this very important dialogue about their history. And since the tribunals have begun, people are now starting to engage.

On the political level, from the Far Eastern Economic Review is a good article on the issues plaguing the legitimacy of the tribunals: Judging the Khmer Rouge Tribunal. Some of author John Hall’s recommendations:

1) Limit opportunities for political interference in judicial decision making.
2) Create an independent investigation mechanism for accusations of wrongdoing.
3) Human rights monitors, NGOs and reporters must be allowed to keep their sources confidential.
4) Ensure adequate whistleblower protections for those reporting wrongdoing.

Filed Under: Interests, Life Tagged With: Cambodia, Khmer Rouge tribunal, KR

Watching Obama’s Inauguration in Phnom Penh

21 January 2009 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment


That was a pretty nice event.. Lots of energy and a huge crowd at the Gym Sports Bar: we had about 180 people throughout the night and well past 230am– was not a good idea to have an 8am meeting like some folks did! And here, our two most favorite things– ZULU and BARACK– we just found our theme for the Mardi Gras Madness event!

And on a side note, a hmmm moment… Bush will be the first ex-president not to get a lifetime security detail. [[cocking head to the side]]] ..of all the living POTUSes that’d need it most…!
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Filed Under: Interests, Life Tagged With: Cambodia, Democrats Abroad, Gym Bar, inauguration, obama, Phnom Penh

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Those little feet pitter-pattering about rule our lives lately. But on the occasional free moment I get to tap out scatterbrained bursts of consciousness about raising toddlers in Cambodia, traveling with them and working abroad. These posts are my personal updates to friends and family. But since you’re here, have a look around. Thanks for stopping by…

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