• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Kampuchea Crossings

Bump to baby on the beaten expat track

  • Home
  • PORTFOLIO
  • Work Posts
  • Contact

Cambodia

stocked fish ponds for a day’s getaway

19 April 2014 by Nathalie Abejero 1 Comment

More photos of Soun Soben at Keith Kelly’s Flickr

After a simmering hot week cranking out some CFCs in the office, it’s time to shift that carbon footprint to another activity. Why not take the family out of the city for a picnic and some fishing?

About 20 minutes outside Phnom Penh (along National Road #1 in Kien Svay district, Kandal) is a stretch of fully stocked ponds, with huts situated along the banks for “picnicking” while you fish. Soun Soben Fishing Lakes is one of these, and it is a popular getaway for Khmers and their families. This 70 hectar property boasts three stocked ponds with 90 fishing huts, several picnic huts and a restaurant. Roaming the grounds freely are peacocks, sambars (a well-fed Sambor deer looking for papaya salad), and other animals used to humans feeding them so they’re friendly. It’s a great spot for families who want to get away from the city for a lazy day in the shade with rods in hand (although weekends are when the rowdy and loud SUV crowds descend en masse upon them – go on a weekday!). The image above is from Keith Kelly’s photostream of Soun Soben.

The grounds are extensive, far enough away from buildings that a good breeze is constant. The tables and thatched-roof huts are sturdy, well-looked after, the grass is cut and maintained, and there are large trees and plenty of shady spots for a nice family picnic. A hut by the sides of the lake will set you back 10,000 riel (US$2.50), unless you buy food and drink.

Thinking of testing your patience against a scaly bluefin? It’ll set you back $3 for a fishing rod and a ball of bait which, yummy as a fresh mix of cornstarch and rice powder might sound, is easily stolen by that clever catfish who’s avoided the hook in all his years. (Bring your own bait if you’re serious about fishing!) Included in this price is that they will clean and cook your catch for you. There are plenty of large fish – you can see them in the water.

Feeding a family of four from their restaurant? A can of beer or a bottle of water is $1, fried vegetables are $2, snails of the large variety are $3.

The typical weekend there will see traffic of around 1000 people from the concrete jungle looking for a quiet and relaxing day in the park. But their clientele reaches 6000 people over the course of a holiday weekend (so avoid it during the New Years!).

(Another popular fishing “resort” is Boeng Chhouk, but there are plenty along this road in Kien Svay district.)

14032010380 sm

14032010381 sm

14032010383 sm

Sam Samboun sm

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: Cambodia, children, family, fish pond, fishing, fishing lake, kids, Phnom Penh

Street stall dining in Battambang

15 March 2014 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Battambang is a culinary destination. There are varieties of fruits and vegetables native to this region that don’t grow as well anywhere else. And the local preparation of many condiments and foods have a distinct character to them.

Every night on the riverside, food vendors set up shop. On the far end of (further from the market than the tokalok, or fruit shake, stalls) is a routine stop whenever my colleagues and I are in town. I think two or three vendors cook the same thing but my colleagues prefer the family at the end; the woman in the picture below is the main cook and everyone else helps with other parts of the operation.  Grilled in banana leaves and eaten with rice, sangvaec* is a processed fish product made over the course of several days. It’s similar to nhem (2nd picture below), except it’s grilled so it has a smokiness to it. It’s served with nom ban chok (white noodles), a tray of vegetables (eg slices of cucumber, green tomatoes) and all sorts of tasty green leaves (including lettuce leaves). A combination of all of these – sang vaec, noodle, cucumber, different leaves) are wrapped in a green leaf and dipped into a sweet-spicy sauce. It’s similar to the way people eat ban xiao, or what’s commonly known as Vietnamese pancake (just keep in mind the Khmer don’t call it “Vietnamese” pancake).

*As with any language that use a different (non-Roman) alphabet, transliterating to English is a bit difficult. There’s no or poor equivalent in English for many Khmer characters.

CAM00776_web

Nhem (nem?) – also a local delicacy – are similar to sangvaec, but these fish rolls are wrapped in a small leaf with a slice of chili. They’re sold in the markets and street stalls. River fish is pounded with spices, then fermented a few days to get that hint of sourness. It would be considered rude if we came back to Phnom Penh without several bunches of these to hand out to everyone. A “bunch” is a cluster of about 7-10 balls, and costs 1000riel (US$0.25) or more. They also have that fermented taste (without sangvaec’s smoked/grilled flavoring). It’s a pretty tasty snack, but just with prahok and durian, definitely an acquired taste for Western palates.

_MG_9800

Nhem also come in bigger sizes. In the picture below you can see the bunches hanging on strings towards the back. To the front of the photo are those coconut (Dong Ktii) which are native and specific to Battambang. Where regular coconuts are just 200riel, these are very rare and cost 32,000riel (US$8.00). I’m still seeking a coconut expert to tell me more about this specific variety. They seem similar to the macapuno variety in the Philippines, which is a mutant strain that doesn’t propagate. The interior is filled with soft sweet jelly-like meat, with very little juice.

CAM00845_web

The following aren’t native to Battambang but they’re found on the bustling market or riverside stalls at dinnertime (which is anywhere between 4pm to an hour after sundown here). One very popular street food is this skewer of chicken eggs. The eggs were drained, spiced, then put back into the shells. They’re then grilled and served hot.

CAM00782_web

And of course, the perennial favorite of street food in Asia, fertilized duck egg, is always on offer wherever you go.

CAM00792_web

The nightly food market is a busy event. About 30 vendors set up their barbecue stations, tables of foods – trays of prahok, vats of rice or soup, bowls of sweets and desserts – and sell them all for take-away. They’re placed into plastic bags. Yes, even soups go into plastic bags and somewhat sealed by tying it off with a rubber band.

CAM00804_web

All manner of grilled river fish and meats can be found here. An entire grilled chicken can set you back around 20,000riel (US$5). One of the tastier fish is tilapia prepared by covering it in sea salt and a mix of spices, wrapping it in foil, and grilling it. The meat is very tender and tasty.

CAM00809_web

Fish amok, signature dish of Cambodia, steamed in banana leaf pockets.

CAM00818_web

Prahok-type preparations are grilled in banana leaves and sold hot. This king of condiments is a mashed, salted and fermented fish paste that goes into many dishes. There is no way to avoid this piquant delicacy!

CAM00820_web

 

Filed Under: Life, Travels Tagged With: balut, Battambang, Cambodia, coconut ktii, egg, fertilized duck egg, food, macapuno, nem, nhem, pong tia kohn

Silent courage of mothers in rural Cambodia

11 March 2014 by Nathalie Abejero 24 Comments

Welcome to the March 2014 Carnival of Natural Parenting: Everyday Superheroes

This post was written for inclusion in the monthly Carnival of Natural Parenting hosted by Hobo Mama and Code Name: Mama. This month our participants have talked about the remarkable people and characteristics that have touched their lives. Please read to the end to find a list of links to the other carnival participants…
Flooding in Siem Reap - September 2011

Nothing against workdays at the office. There’s something to be said for air-conditioned comfort when the blistering sun and uneven roads await activities that donors have pledged tax dollars for. Besides, all the preparatory, follow-up and administrative work is necessary.

But fieldwork is where the action is – where meaningful interactions happen and that flash of inspiration hits, giving you hope that what you’re doing in the bulk of your waking hours matter. So I look forward to these jaunts to the countryside.

Out on the national roads, rice fields stretch into the distance, peppered by swaying palms and coconut trees, and the occasional thatched hut on stilts. Small figures dot the landscape. Through the planting and harvest seasons these fields are full of activity. I instinctively zero in on the women – mothers, some of them pregnant or with a baby slung on their back (or both!) – toiling in the fields. The moment you become a mother you’re initiated into a global kinship that transcends the range of social constructs. We have something big in common. And like each of us surviving our own realities, that mom in the field has her own unique angle on motherhood.

Three years ago, my ten hours of labor ended in an emergency cesarean. I have no complaints. Ours was the most purpose driven pregnancy. My husband and I took birthing courses (plural). I tried yoga and meditation sessions, continued running until I was well over 5 months then kept to an exercise regimen, and ate a balanced, chemical-free diet. My body was in good shape by the time we came to term. Giving birth in Cambodia was out of the question for reasons following, and there were few birthing centers reasonably accessible, so off we flew to Bangkok for the best nearby hospital (baby-friendly!) and obstetrician (low cesarean rate!). We even hired a doula and pre-booked the premier birthing suite equipped with yoga balls, ladders and swings, a birthing pool and Beethoven on the playlist. We did what we could to ensure a smooth delivery, but the medical safety net was in place in case of complications.

It was an ordeal, and when I think of courage, I think back to this time and what all mothers go through. (On this note – how did the tradition of celebrating the child in birthdays start? Isn’t mom the hero on this anniversary?)

Contrast my experience with the birthing reality of the women in those rice paddies. A decade ago, maternal deaths were so common that everyone knew someone who died in childbirth. Most births weren’t even attended by skilled attendants. “Giving birth is like crossing a river,” goes an old Khmer proverb; it was so dangerous that families prepared for the likelihood of losing the mother, the baby, or both.

With concerted effort, significant gains were made in decreasing maternal mortality, but the proverb still holds. The country is recovering from decades of war, so the building blocks of a functional medical system are still being laid. Maternal care in the capital is improving, but standards are generally low in rural areas.

Imagine bouncing over unpaved country roads in a steel wagon pulled by a motorbike – while in labor – to get to the one health facility in tens of miles. When you arrive, the facility might not have sufficient drugs (like anesthesia), supplies (like soap, water, a sterile delivery kit), or power (because electricity is at a premium). You assume the health staff can handle a normal birth (at least), but the likelihood of her being current in emergency obstetric and newborn care is abysmal (clinical training is poor). Not only is income for health staff so low it doesn’t cover her family’s basic needs but, worse, salaries are routinely months behind in payment. This means staff rely on multiple income generating activities (will there even be anyone at the facility when you arrive, in labor?).

With every delivery I witness here, I’m left deeply impressed at how women – not just Khmer, but all over the developing world – enter motherhood in full realization it might literally be the death of them. The possibility of death from obstetric complications or from a vaccine-preventable illness before baby’s first birthday never crossed my mind. My biggest worries were sore nipples, how to keep the baby latched during takeoffs and landings, and finding spare parts for my Medela Pump-in-Style here in Southeast Asia.

Most pregnancies end in a natural process with a healthy mama and baby. Through factors beyond our control, our first birth happened to be in the small percentage that resulted in complication. What would have been our outcome had I been one of these women, whose odds of surviving childbirth (or baby surviving the first year) can be like rolling dice?

There are no bounds to the strength of motherhood. We all put our heroic best forward. But I am deeply humbled by the courage and heroism of mothers in the figurative global “South”. In this day and age, that childbirth is so dangerous for millions of women is a remarkable commentary on humanity and the idea of progress. Born in a developing country myself, I count my blessings every day. Courage? It’s all relative, and sometimes I feel like I know little about it.

Photos from the field
Facilities are open air, so animals routinely wander into health centers and hospitals. Infection control standards were introduced in the health sector only as recently as 2010.
033 sm

Few health professionals were left after the wars, so cadres of youth were hastily trained to fill demand. Training was applied with little coordination by the government and aid community, with each donor using their own curriculum, training materials, and value system for interventions (cultural approaches to health and medicine differ by region eg Spanish vs French colonies, Europe vs Asia, etc). To be fair, it can take years of collaboration across sectors to agree on protocols and regulation –  a luxury Cambodia didn’t have immediately following the wars.

The challenge today (and bulk of development work) is in the ongoing training of these clinicians while they’re in their post. It’s an inefficient use of resources but a necessary task for the Ministry of Health and its partners.
Healthcare Practitioner consulting an expectant mother at Treal Health Center in Baray-Santuk Operational District

Transportation through provincial roads are by motorbike or “rumorque-moto” – essentially a wagon pulled by a motorbike. With unpaved roads continually molded by flooding and heavy rains, traveling by rumorque-moto or motorbike is not comfortable in the best of circumstances.
Pic0108 sm

Many complications can be managed through simple, low-tech interventions, but staff are poorly trained to recognize the signs and act quickly on them.
MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Cambodia and Laos have the highest infant mortality rates in the region, due to illnesses easily preventable through better nutrition, immunization and proper sanitation.
DSC_0007 sm

Malnutrition is also prevalent, making growth monitoring very important. This is possible because, with high immunization coverage, every contact provides opportunity for health staff to check the child’s growth (eg measuring and charting height/length and weight). But this woman is lucky if the nurse in charge of vaccination bothers to take the baby’s measurements, or gives advice on proper nutrition and growth.
Patient at Kampong Thom Health Center in Kampong Thom Operational District

(This topic on Khmer mothers was chosen to commemorate International Women’s Day 2014, whose official theme is “Equality for women is progress for all.”  Thanks for reading..)
*******

Carnival of Natural Parenting -- Hobo Mama and Code Name: MamaVisit Hobo Mama and Code Name: Mama to find out how you can participate in the next Carnival of Natural Parenting!

Please take time to read the submissions by the other carnival participants:

(This list will be updated by afternoon March 11 with all the carnival links.)

  • I Am A Super Hero — Jennifer at Hybrid Rasta Mama shares how she learned the hard way exactly what it means to be a real super hero and not a burned out shell of a human simply pretending to be one.
  • Quiet Heroics — Heroism doesn’t have to be big and bold. Read how Jorje of Momma Jorje is a quiet hero…and how you probably are, too.
  • Not a Bang, but a Whisper {Carnival of Natural Parenting} — Meegs at A New Day talks about the different types of “superheroes,” ones that come in with a bang and ones that come in with a whisper.
  • Silent courage of motherhood in rural Cambodia — Nathalie at Kampuchea Crossings marvels at how rural Khmer women defy the odds in childbirth.
  • Super Pappy — Mother Goutte‘s little boy met a superhero in checked slippers and Volkswagen Polo, his grand dad: Super Pappy!
  • An Open Letter to Batman — Kati at The Best Things challenges Batman to hold up his end of the deal, in the name of social justice, civic duty, and a little boy named Babe-O!
  • My Village — Kellie at Our Mindful Life reflects on the people who helped her to become her best self.
  • 5 Lessons My Kids Taught Me — Children are amazing teachers, when we only stop to listen. They remind us to choose happiness, to delight in the small things, to let go and forgive. There is so much we can learn from our children. Justine at The Lone Home Ranger shares a few of the lessons she’s learned.
  • Could you use some superpowers? — Tat at Mum in search shares a fun activity to help you connect with your own superpowers.
  • Like Fire Engines — Tam at tinsenpup tells the story of the day she saw a surprising superhero lurking in the guise of her not entirely mild-mannered four-year-old daughter.
  • Everyday Superheroes — Erica at ChildOrganics shares her list of Walker Warburg Syndrome Superheroes that have touched her life forever.
  • My Superhero of the Week: Nancy Gallagher — Tribal Mama muses about the transcendent things her superhero mom has done.
  • My choice in natural birth does not make me a super hero — Bianca, The Pierogie Mama, discusses her thoughts on her experience with the perception of natural birth and putting those mamas on a different level. Does giving birth naturally give cause for an extra pat on the back? No! All mamas, no matter how they birth, are superheroes.
  • Someone’s Hero — Sometimes being a parent means pretending to be a grown-up, but it always means you are someone’s hero. Read Mandy’s lament at Living Peacefully with Children.
  • Growing into a Super Hero — Casey at Joyful Courage shares how owning our behavior and choosing to be a better parent, a better person, is an act of courage.
  • A Math Superhero — Kerry at City Kids Homeschooling writes that her 7-year-old daughter’s superhero is an MIT-trained mathematician.
  • It Starts With Truffula Trees And Tulips — Luschka of Diary of a First Child takes a hard look at the realities of her relationship with her mother, and through this post goes on a journey of discovery that ends in a surprise realisation for her.
  • We Don’t Need an Excuse — Maria Kang (aka “Hot Mom”) asks women #WhatsYourExcuse for not being in shape? Dionna at Code Name: Mama asks Hot Mom what her excuse is for not devoting her life to charity work, or fostering dozens of stray dogs each year, or advocating for the needs of others. Better yet, Code Name: Mama says, how about we realize that every woman has her own priorities. Focus on your own, and stop judging others for theirs.
  • It’s not heroic when you’re living it — Lauren at Hobo Mama knows from the inside that homeschooling does not take a hero, and that much of what we choose as parents is simply what works best for us.
  • Superheroes, princesses and preschoolers — Garry at Postilius discusses why his preschool-age son is not ready for comic book superheroes.
  • The Loving Parents of Children with Special Needs – Everyday Superheroes — Deb Chitwood at Living Montessori Now shares posts with resources for parents of children with special needs along with posts to help others know how to support parents of children with special needs.
  • Everyday Empathy — Mommy Giraffe of Little Green Giraffe shares why her secret superpower is everyday empathy.
  • The Simplicity of Being a Superhero — Ana at Panda & Ananaso explains what superheroes mean to her wise three-year-old.
  • My Father, The Hero — Fathers are pretty amazing; find out why Christine at The Erudite Mom thinks hers is the bees knees.

Filed Under: Life, Work Tagged With: Cambodia, Carnival of Natural Parenting, childbirth, courage, courage of moms, courage of mothers, expat, expatriate, heroism of moms, heroism of mothers, International Women's Day, International Women's Day 2014, maternal and child health, mom, motherhood, parenting

Khmer food: Svay bok Trai cha-aa

8 March 2014 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

(Smashed grilled fish) I’m always discovering new Khmer dishes I haven’t tried yet. My colleague brought some of this the other day for her lunch. The photo doesn’t capture it well, but it’s a very tasty dish (for those not turned off by pungency, that is)!

It’s made of fish (grilled river catfish was used here), smashed in a mortar and pestle with grated green mango and spices. I asked Sopheap to make it and watched. Into the mortar with the mango went chopped red and white onion, a little garlic, salt, peanuts, some fish sauce and herbs that they call chee (gee?), for which I don’t know the English names. (I’ll add to this post when I find out.)

Similar to it is the more famous green papaya/mango salad. This salad has river crab, often added raw then smashed into the other ingredients. But svay bok trai cha-aa uses fish. They lend a lot of pungency to the already multiple layers of flavor. It won’t go into the family’s recipe rotation very often, because the flavors are a bit strong for the kids right now. But it’s definitely a good lunch option! (I just have to make sure to stock Menthos in my desk!)

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: Cambodia, cuisine, fish, food, Khmer, mango, svay bok trai cha-aa

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Center for a birthday party

2 February 2014 by Nathalie Abejero 2 Comments

CAM02358 elephant

We’ve been to Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center several times and I’m always impressed with it. The grounds are large – it’s certainly possible to walk from one exhibit to the next, but a vehicle would be useful. They have many exhibits. I still haven’t seen all of them. Most animals have a fairly wide area to roam (they aren’t confined to small concrete cages as I expected). They’re rescued from accidents or illegal wildlife trade, and rehabilitated. Those that can’t be released back to the wild stay on the grounds. The center is staffed by dedicated conservationists, and they’re routinely visited by experts in specific species.

Our little boy and his friend celebrated their birthday together, so we took them to the Rescue Center with their closest friends. Our friend who’s Cambodia’s very own ‘Steve Irwin Crocodile Hunter’ organized a fantastic day – we brought 20kg of meat for the crocodiles and tigers so we can see them up close. We ran into Lucky the elephant who was taking a stroll with her handler, so we fed her some of her favorite treats, coconuts and sugar cane. These huge creatures would crush the coconuts under their foot like it was an egg!

We also stopped by the breeding pen for Siamese crocodiles that continually releases juveniles back to the wild. Siamese are rare, as most of them have been hunted or are bred with other species of crocodiles to make better handbags. (Adam is a conservationist and as a crocodile expert made it an informative outing for all of us.)

This is the first time the kids ever saw a piñata too, so that was quite entertaining! They’re pretty lucky they have parents who’ll spend quite a bit of time making piñatas for them, one a stegosaurus and the other a chicken.

Feeding a Sambar Deer

Make a wish times 2

Piñata smashing time!

Piñata smashing time!

Piñata smashing time!

Smashed Piñata feeding frenzy!

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: birthday party, Cambodia, chicken, elephant, parenting, Phnom Penh, Phnom Tamao Zoological Park and Wildlife Rescue Centre, piñata, stegosaurus

Santa Claus has come to the Penh

23 December 2013 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

_MG_5859sm

Our son’s first word (apart from mama and papa) was elephant – every time we pointed to an elephant in one of his books he’d say “peh-pet”. Last year he was still a bit young to appreciate the celebration of Christmas, and was afraid of Santa Claus, even when he arrived with his favorite creature, Sambo the elephant. This year we milked that naughty/nice list idea cuz it works like a charm – it’ll be a treat to watch this little boy on Christmas morning now that he knows better. Sambo, happily, is no longer a regular on Phnom Penh’s busy riverside. He retired this year to a zoo.

_MG_5860sm

_MG_5861sm

_MG_5862sm

Filed Under: Life, Travels Tagged With: Cambodia, christmas, holiday, Khmer, Phnom Penh, Santa, Santa on an elephant, St. Nick, xmas

  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Go to page 1
  • Go to page 2
  • Go to page 3
  • Go to page 4
  • Go to page 5
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Go to page 17
  • Go to Next Page »

Primary Sidebar

Those little feet pitter-pattering about rule our lives lately. But on the occasional free moment I get to tap out scatterbrained bursts of consciousness about raising toddlers in Cambodia, traveling with them and working abroad. These posts are my personal updates to friends and family. But since you’re here, have a look around. Thanks for stopping by…

Read More…

Blog Post Categories

  • Interests
  • Life
  • Travels
  • Work

Latest posts

  • Cheers to 2024, an important election year!
  • Some optics on how rapidly technology is changing the world
  • AI note taking tools for your second brain
  • Kids project: Micro-loans to women entrepreneurs
  • I ran the 50th NYC Marathon!
  • Bok l’hong with Margaritas or, memories from the Mekong
  • Getting the kids to like ampalaya (bitter gourd)
  • Gender differences in athletic training

Tags

aid baby Bangkok bush Cambodia christmas coconut covid-19 cuisine delivery development expat expatriate Filipino food food foreign aid holiday hurricane inauguration katrina Khmer Khmer cuisine Khmer food Khmer New Year kids levy louisiana mango Manila medical tourism mekong new orleans nola nyc obama parenthood parenting Philippines Phnom Penh Poipet running Thailand travel US xmas
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Copyright © 2025 · Genesis Sample on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in