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Phnom Penh in photos

22 April 2015 by Nathalie Abejero 5 Comments

The first experiences in this charming little Kingdom of Wonder are a full assault on the senses, despite regular travel outside comfort zones. Our photo archive is bursting with what was once so unique and interesting — market scenes, street sights, exotic fruits. But after many years of working and living here, these scenes reduce to mundane.

Thanks to the gang at the Multicultural Kid Blogs, however, I can filter through our images with fresh eyes. In this series, bloggers around the world give a tour of their neighborhood and town. What does a local playground look like in Astana, Kazakhstan, or how about a school in Izhevsk, Russia? It’s great for kids to see such differences in our daily lives around the world and yet, how much of it is so similar.

Notwithstanding the cultural ramifications of a tragic history, Cambodia is a fascinating destination — for its friendly people and curious embrace of Westerners. Here below are our stomping grounds around this adopted city of Phnom Penh.

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Local school Our kids play here regularly as it’s nearby. It’s usually packed with Khmer and Vietnamese families and kids. Our favorite thing about it besides the people there is the elephant slide. Public schools across the country are built in a similar style — long buildings up to three storeys tall with large rooms that accommodate around 30 children. The grounds have two or three of these buildings, painted the same color yellow, with an open courtyard in the middle. Their school bell is an old ammunition shell. This particular facility is supported by Enfants d’Asie, which shelters orphans and children either on the grounds or on a daycare basis. Its ceilings are home to roosting bats, but despite that, the rooms are tidy and clean. This and other public schools tend to be open so the community can use the grounds for exercise and recreation when classes aren’t in session.

Enfants d’Asie ASPECAEnfants d’Asie ASPECA classroomElephant jungle gym

Public playground Over the past 10 years, a municipal beautification project has turned the wide boulevards and grounds in the country’s provincial capitals into colorful play spaces, complete with exercise stations and/or playground structures.

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Local Transport It’s the start of the rainy season here, and rumok-motos (below) are a sturdy mode of transport on the muddy secondary and tertiary roads. It takes passengers for ~500Riel (US$0.125) along its routes to and from the markets.

Tuk tuks are common in the cities. There’s little elevation in the area surrounding Phnom Penh, so it’s relatively easy for motorbikes to haul passengers around in these. They get converted to mobile vendors (pizza, coffee, etc) for locally unique attractions.

Motorbikes are also popular. People can pick up moto-taxis on street corners or by flagging one down on the street. It’s a cheap set of wheels for a family starting out, and only recently is the government beginning to crack down on overloading them with passengers or cargo. (I think the most people I’ve seen on one was 8 — 5 adults and 3 small children!).

Cambodia-transport

Markets They’re everywhere, and they have it all — produce, eggs, meats, seafood. Keep those eyes peeled for easy to spot animals from endangered species, mixed into the piles on offer.

Take a break for an iced coffee or small snack. This woman makes the tastiest iced coffee! — and for 2000riel (US$0.50)! At the end of the day, have it with a shot of Bailey’s. Ohhh heaven.

Collage EatingCollage Dry marketCollage wet market

Check out those brilliant rambutans she’s selling; they are in season now. My son can eat several kilograms of this fruit in one sitting, which is great because it’s an antioxidant powerhouse that rivals pomegranates and acai. Here they are opened up. It is juicy when ripe, can be both mildly sweet and sour, with a bit of acidic aftertaste. A small piece of bark always gets stuck to the meat, but it doesn’t affect the taste.

Collage rambutan

Elsewhere around the city, produce vendors cluster in shaded areas. Haggling is a sport, but it’s only the start of your purchase; selecting the sweetest out of a pile of fruit that look similarly tasty is not a simple task. Fruit that are weighing their trees or bushes down are picked all at once and stored in dark cool corners of the house, wrapped in newspaper. They’re put on the table out front for sale as they ripen.

Collage roadside

Street scenes We frequent the riverside, where our Khmer/Vietnamese friends own an English Pub. It is a tourist hub, and a draw for many young Khmers, for the bustle of activity. Need some Happy Pizza (weed topping)? Want to exercise? Have a drink? Chow on some local delicacies such as fried insects (tarantula is a favorite) or fertilized duck egg? This is the place to be. Head over to Phnom Penh at night for some night time scenes. Other iconic sights include coconut sellers and meal vendors.

tarantulaCollage Street Vendors

Weddings Reception halls are a recent concept, and because the Chinese shop houses are not laid out for parties, these makeshift tents spill out to the street for weddings. Seeing these get assembled brings on a good groan from foreigners; the regular and frequent pop up nature of these congestion points can be aggravating (not to mention the music turned up past the capacity of the 16 speakers these tents come with!). Apart from that, the rituals of the traditional three day Khmer wedding is a study in this region’s culture and legends.

Collage wedding

Rapid modernization Safety is a luxury for workers in an economy that’s eagerly modernizing. Check out this guy outside the fifth (fourth) floor window without contraptions to prevent injury from above or to avert falls.

This is the case for local builders. Phnom Penh now has several high-rises, the tallest of which is Vattanac Tower at 39 storeys — it is the one that looks like an Angry Bird in the skyline. They (thankfully) commission development firms abroad for these, and for the most part they do observe international safety standards.

Danger Pay?

Below are skyline views of the city. It is a small city, comparatively, but sprawling. I can’t quite capture the sheer number of construction around the city. Developers are eyeing the prime real estate of the riversides (this city sits on the confluence of two major rivers, the Mekong and the Tonle Sap). Skyline mergedLooking North

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Check out at all the other great destinations we have been and will be discovering, on thepiripirilexicon.com!

Show me your neighbourhood around the world

Check for updates on Twitter with @pirilexicon or #worldneighbourhood #worldneighborhood

 

 

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: @pirilexicon, #worldneighborhood, #worldneighbourhood, ASPACA, Enfants d'Asie, food, market, playground, Royal Palace, school

Khmer foods I love: Sa-om pong tia (acacia leaf duck egg omelet)

8 April 2015 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Saom

I should’ve put a dollar bill behind the bunch to show scale; it is small and only about the length of a large adult hand (this photo is zoomed in to show the fronds of this fern-like herb). It’s common hereabouts, has a mildly bitter taste and a pungent sulfury aroma. I’ve seen it most commonly chopped off the stems and mixed into duck egg omelets. It’s one of my kids’ favorite fast foods. In English it’s called acacia leaf, and in Khmer it’s sa-om. It’s eaten with rice and some sweet chili sauce, or as part of an array of dishes that usually includes soups.

I wonder what else people use this herb in.

20150420_154924 smPong Tia SaomPong Tia Saom

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: duck egg, egg, food, Khmer cuisine, Khmer food, omelet, sa-om, saom

Stir fry pumpkin flower (Chaa lapeau)

4 April 2015 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Young leaves and pumpkin flowers being prepared for stir fry.

Pumpkin flowers – it’s available in the markets, early in the mornings. In a stir fry dish it has a taste and crunch similar to morning glory. Love this dish!

Young leaves and pumpkin flowers being prepared for stir fry.

In many articles I’ve seen online, people pop off various parts of the flower to trash as they process it for cooking. But the Khmers I’ve seen cook it just cut them up and toss it all into a pot.

Taste of Nepal has some great photos and a recipe. And here’s a short explainer on pumpkin flowers from Tyrant Farms:

No matter how you eat them, you’ll enjoy knowing that a single cup of pumpkin flowers contains:

  • 643 IU Vitamin A
  • 9 mg Vitamin C
  • 57 mg Potassium
  • a host of other essential micronutrients to keep you healthy

Remember: only eat the male pumpkin flowers! Pumpkins are “monoecious,” meaning a single plant will produce both male and female flowers, allowing it to self-reproduce without another pumpkin plant. You only want to eat the male flowers—not the female flowers—to make sure your plant will grow pumpkins. Also, bees and other pollinators use the pollen from the male flowers to pollinate the female flowers, so you can either leave plenty of male flowers on the plant for them to do their work, or you can become a “pollinator” yourself by taking the harvested male flowers and rubbing their stamens against the female flower’s pistils (sorry if that sounds a bit X-rated) once you’ve harvested the flowers.

It’s easy to tell the male and female flowers apart once you’ve seen them both—the females have a bulbous base that will eventually become the pumpkin, whereas the male flowers have a small base. Like other squash, pumpkin plants always produce a good number of male flowers before they produce their first female flowers.

Once we harvest our male pumpkin flowers, we remove any of the green stem and either: 1) eat them right there in the garden, 2) add them to a salad, or 3) roll them in pancake batter and cook them in a skillet like a pancake (finished with maple syrup or berries). Pumpkin flowers have a sweet yet earthy flavor that we love.

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: chaa lapeau, food, Khmer cuisine, Khmer food, pumpkin, pumpkin flower, stir fry

Quick eats in Phnom Penh: Bánh hỏi for lunch

3 April 2015 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

This shop on busy Sihanouk Blvd has been serving fantastic bánh hỏi for years! They serve a set menu that includes sandwiches and meat skewers. It’s a picture menu, and easy to point to one of the two big platters of meats and vegetables. Before the food arrives, a small pan of water and slices of lemon is brought to the table for washing hands.

Bánh hỏi refers to the rice vermicelli noodle woven into a fine mesh, which looks like gauze. It’s paired with foods of different textures and richness – starchy green bananas, sweet pineapples, crunchy cucumbers, meats and fats – all to be wrapped into a fresh spring roll. These fillings are laid out on several platters.

One of these platters contains skewered pork meat sliced very thin and wrapped around a piece of fat. It’s accompanied by the pickled vegetables that’s served with many barbecued Khmer dishes (slivers of unripe mango or papaya, cucumber, carrot in vinegar, salt, sugar and chili).

Rice paper wrap is served dry and stacked on the plate; before rolling, a wrap is dipped in warm water to soften and make it pliable. It’s a bit tricky because once wet the wrap is fragile so it tears easily. But with a little practice it can be stretched expertly to roll an unwieldy amount of filling together. The dipping sauce, nuoc cham, is a delicate balance of spice, sweet, sour, and salty, and topped with roasted ground peanuts and chili.

Below is the process photographed step-by-step:

Wash your handsBánh hỏi20150324_114646 ban hoi smBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏi

On Sihanouk Blvd the small “hang bai” is easily lost in the mix of salons, retailers and other eateries on the north side of the street between Monivong and St 63. It’s about 7 shops towards Monivong if starting on St 63 –  look for the yellow awning with the address #83AEo St 274. Today they were sporting the famous (brightly colored) pajama apparel!

20150402_120254Bánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏiBánh hỏi

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: Bánh hỏi, cuisine, food, Khmer, nuam choc, Phnom Penh, Sihanouk Blvd, vietnamese

Escaping a Mekong cityscape for a slice of rural life

10 March 2015 by Nathalie Abejero 21 Comments

Welcome to the March 2015 Carnival of Natural Parenting: Day in the Life

This post was written for inclusion in the monthly Carnival of Natural Parenting hosted by Hobo Mama and Code Name: Mama. This month our participants have given us a special glimpse into their everyday.

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Escaping the heady concrete jungle of Phnom Penh every once in a while is a necessity for sanity’s sake. Most people take off for the coast on a day or weekend trip, or relax for a few hours in any one of the resorts that now dot the outer sprawl of the city. Last weekend, we visited a friend across the river.

Our oldest has settled into a reasonable sleep cycle (yey!), but our younger one still wakes up at the crack of dawn (groan). Naturally that means we’re all up. Time to open up the house to get air flow and, it being a tropical climate, on weekends the kids will sometimes take their shower outside and that ends up in all-out water play.

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Most expatriates have motorbikes or cars, but we like to use tuk tuks within city limits. Ten years ago vehicles were rare and most streets in the capital were unpaved. But now the congestion makes tuk tuks rides less pleasant due to emissions (unregulated), road rage (most people never properly learned how to drive and there are essentially no road rules), and the right of way afforded by type of vehicle (the post-conflict influx of large amounts of aid ensured that progress leans to the well-connected. Today Cambodia boasts a very high number of luxury vehicles per capita, particularly Lexus, and they drive like they own the roads).

17022010298 TukTukCommute sm

The city built many outdoor play and recreation spaces, which the kids enjoy in the mornings before the heat sets in. Large recreational spaces are popular, and replicated in the provincial capitals which are all situated by rivers. Competitions are held every year for the most attractive riverside, with the winning municipality getting more funds for beautification.

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Coconuts are almost a daily dietary requirement in this tropical heat. It’s nutrient-dense, great for hydration and cheap. These guys pushing loads of coconuts around the city and charge anywhere from 1500-2500Riel (US$0.37-0.62) each.

11012010074 Coconut Vendor sm

The end of the rains when temperatures drop is peak wedding season, disrupting life and traffic everywhere. Like elsewhere, they’re elaborate. Reception halls are a fairly recent concept, and because urban homes tend to be Chinese shop house style (long but narrow), these one- to three-day affairs are usually held in a makeshift “wedding hall” that spill out onto the streets just outside the bride’s home. It’s often a drag if these affairs pop up near the house – because of the noise (chanting starts at 5am!) and backed-up traffic.

14012010091 Khmer Street Wedding sm

I think the National Museum is the most beautiful building in the city, with architecture that is uniquely Khmer (and from which evolved the Thai style). Unfortunately as with any city, these elements from architectural tradition are lost in the race to modernize. A friend lives in a flat overlooking the museum, and for this view alone it’s always a treat to visit him.

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The next most beautiful structures in the country are those in the Royal Palace. In this picture is the Moonlight Pavilion (ព្រះទីន័ងច័ន្ទឆាយា or Preah Thineang Chan Chhaya). It faces the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong River, and it serves as a stage for classical dance, or as a viewing platform when there are events outside the palace grounds or on the river. (Further down this post is a photo of that pavilion lit up at night.)

IMG_4303 cyclo

Today we were invited to a friend’s house across the river (that’s Phnom Penh in the background). The river crossing takes us past lots of boats, some of which are the homes of the families who trawl for fish. These communities have been displaced repeatedly, as each tract of land they dock to gets developed.

20150222_110138 smWorking into the eveningColorful Cham boat

Our friend found a house for sale in another province; she bought it, then had it taken apart and rebuilt on her property using the same materials and design of the original home. Inside, her husband’s artwork is on display across the walls. The house is traditional in all aspects except the bar and furniture.

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My husband likes to walk around the neighborhoods taking photos, and this is the general reaction to him, below. What is this barang (foreigner) looking at?? Of course, what’s considered typical for them is new and interesting to us – just like the laptop is an everyday fixture for us while the village grandma is transfixed. The 3rd photo below is the traditional way of making textiles, using a loom. Depending on the quality and complexity of design, it can take up to a month for one person (almost always a woman) to make a piece of fabric ~2m x 1m. These will sell in the local markets for around US$25-60.

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Cambodia fortunately doesn’t suffer the natural disasters its neighbors face seasonally. There are no earthquakes, tornadoes, nearby volcanoes, tsunamis etc. But during the rains this largely flat country is prone to flooding. So houses are raised on stilts. The space below has multiple uses: farm animals can be fed here, then the area can be used for cooking, sharing meals or napping in the hammocks, and at night the farm animals come back for shelter.

Kratie - Cambodia house

The kids get sugar cane juice before boarding the vessel to head back across the river to Phnom Penh. From this side of the river is a close-up view of the floating villages, and the slow launch of our boat lets the curious watch a slice of life in this often-displaced community.

20150222_110929 sm20150222_110013 smFloating village on the Mekong

Back in Phnom Penh we’re dropped off on the riverside where we take the kids for a walk. Every evening vendors of all manner line the streets (selling fried insects, fruits, balloons, popcorn, kites, etc). Sundowners by the river with a coconut or a nice cocktail, taking in the bustling scenery, are popular. Exercise groups converge here when the sun goes down. Joining an aerobics “class”, moving to modern dance hits, costs ~2000Riel (US$0.50).

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Finally, it’s time for a drink. Cambodia is a popular destination for travelers hitting Southeast Asia, and this week it’s an old friend from college joining us for a drink while the kids run amok. Luckily in this part of the world, it’s the norm to lend helpful hands and watchful eyes on all little ones, regardless whose kids they are. Asia is a fantastic region for families for this cultural fondness for children. It’s hard to imagine things any other way, until we spend time in the US on holiday where the environment for parents with children in tow seems comparatively hostile!

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On the way home, we pass again the more common scenes at night.. the Royal Palace, the National Museum, old colonial mansions. Just outside these compounds, cyclo drivers tuck in for the night.

Royal Palace at nightRoyal Palace at nightNational Museum at night in Phnom PenhColonial Building at night in Phnom PenhCyclos rounded up for the night at National Museum in Phnom Penh

Home! Of course, even if we’ve already eaten, and even if they’re clearly spent after a long day, the kids never fail to plead hunger so they can stay up just a little bit longer..

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Carnival of Natural Parenting -- Hobo Mama and Code Name: MamaVisit Hobo Mama and Code Name: Mama to find out how you can participate in the next Carnival of Natural Parenting!

Please take time to read the submissions by the other carnival participants:

  • A Day as Mama and Data Manager — Becca at The Earthling’s Handbook explains what she actually does as data manager of a social science research study, as well as Mama to a baby and a fourth-grader.
  • Pictures of a Day — A photo montage of a typical day in the life of Life Breath Present! You can see how she wakes up and spends her time in quiet, to Baby Boy sleeping at dinner, making natural products, and so much more!
  • Escaping a Mekong cityscape for a slice of rural life — It’s often necessary for Nathalie of Kampuchea Crossings to escape the heady concrete jungle that Phnom Penh is rapidly becoming, for the calmer environment of rural life.
  • Community-schooling — Dionna at Code Name: Mama and her family don’t *home*school, they *community* school!
  • A day in the Life in La Yacata — Read how Survivor and her family at Surviving Mexico Adventures and Disasters spend their Sundays off-grid in rural central Mexico.
  • Day in the Life of the Cole Family — Stoneageparent details the everyday life of her family through twelve photos taken over twelve hours
  • The Days Are Just Packed — Holly at Leaves of Lavender talks about the beauty and simplicity of daily life with a toddler.
  • A Day In The Life of a Heavily Pregnant Naturally Parenting Mama — At 37 weeks pregnant, Sam Vickery of Love Parenting shares her current reality as she naturally parents her four-year-old and awaits her sweet baby.
  • My Life in Pictures on a Random Day — Donna at Eco-Mothering captures a random winter day in Rhode Island through a series of snapshots. What seemed boring at first made her smile in the end.
  • How One Book Inspired Our Whole Day: A Day in the Life — How to plan the whole day with a toddler after reading one book together from Rachael at B is for Bookworm.
  • A day in the life of an unschooling, work-at-home family — Lauren at Hobo Mama shares a picture journey through a typical day with three little homeschooling boys.
  • Day in the Life of a Toddler — From mess making to cleaning up to trying new things, All Natural Katie shows the life of a toddler.
  • Things I have done today (and every other day for the past seven years) — Marija Smits shares what a ‘normal’ day looks like in her crazy world of kids, writing, creativity and household chores!
  • Just Another Wednesday — Lactating Girl at The Adventures of Lactating Girl shares a glimpse into a typical Wednesday in her family’s life.
  • Day in the Life — Dr Sarah at Good Enough Mum gives us glimpses of her life as a British GP and mum.
  • Our days, these days — Dietary restrictions and health issues take a lot of time for Jessica Claire at Crunchy-Chewy Mama, but she still follows her passions and tries to show up for her kids.
  • A (Typical) Day in Our Life — ANonyMous at Radical Ramblings describes a typical day with two kids, eight cats and two dogs.

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: cyclo, mekong, Mekong River, National Museum, Phnom Penh, Royal Palace

Where apsaras dance .. updated

9 February 2015 by Nathalie Abejero 2 Comments

Maxence & Dimanche's wedding

The origins and symbolism of Khmer weddings, according to the Khmer Institute:

Khmer weddings enact Cambodia’s greatest legend. The first Khmer prince, Preah Thong, fell in love with the Naga Princess, Neang Neak, while exiled from his homeland. As a marriage gift to the couple, the father of the Naga Princess swallowed part of the ocean, and out of this was formed the land of Cambodia.

[Read more…] about Where apsaras dance .. updated

Filed Under: Life, Travels Tagged With: Khmer, Khmer wedding, marriage, traditional, wedding

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Those little feet pitter-pattering about rule our lives lately. But on the occasional free moment I get to tap out scatterbrained bursts of consciousness about raising toddlers in Cambodia, traveling with them and working abroad. These posts are my personal updates to friends and family. But since you’re here, have a look around. Thanks for stopping by…

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