Travels

How to catch sparrows

19 July 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 2 Comments

A little bit of life in Phnom Penh…. I was sitting at a cafe overlooking Sisowath Quay (riverside), when I watched how they catch what’s nicknamed in the birding world as LBJs (Little Brown Jobbies), or the ubiquitous common sparrows. Keith told me how he’d watch them do this but it seemed like such a tediously unrewarding way to catch birds so I didn’t believe him.

Small Khmer kids with long thin bamboo sticks patiently waited at some short bushes by the river. When a sparrow came along, they poked it with their stick. On the end of the stick is a blob of glue which, when it gets onto the bird’s feathers, effectively renders them incapable of flying. As the bird hops away trying to get the glue off, the kids would poke it again with the glue, and again and again. Eventually the bird’s fate is sealed.

Fried, one can eat every single part of this little bird. It looks horrible, but for a country that doesn’t have many choices as far as food, especially the poor, anything that moves is fair game. Thus it became part of the culinary repertoire.

Along the river, in between all the fancy restaurants, bars and cafes catering to expatriates, are a smattering of food stalls with plastic chairs and tables. On any given night scores of young Khmers either on dates or just out with friends have this for dinner. A can of Black Panther (stout) was 3000Riel, or $0.75, in 2007. The plate of about 5 fried sparrows was 5000Riel, or $1.25, served with a pepper and lime juice sauce and a salad of green herbs and vegetables. (There is also another bird in there, a quail, cut in half).

Tourists would walk past the tables and the horrified look on their faces as they caught a glimpse of what was frying or served up were really funny to watch. Even funnier is their double-take and attempt to look non-chalant when they saw fellow foreigner Keith at one of the tables with his camera, putting away one of these delicacies.

This contraption is their barbecue grill. It’s essentially what we would have back home as a clay planter except ten times thicker, with a hole cut out of the base to stick in the charcoal, and set inside an aluminum casing. Shown here steaming are fertilised duck eggs. They are usually sold 3 for 4000Riel or $1.00.

Is that an IV drip on an Angkor bas relief?

22 March 2008 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Photos courtesy of K. Estela

Ha– no wonder there’s such a problem with IV use here LOL!

Without regulatory standards and mechanisms such as licensing or accreditation, quality of care is partly determined by consumer demand. People more often than not believe the more invasive or expensive a treatment, the more effective. This means treating simple fatigue with an intravenous drip instead of coconut juice ($10 vs $0.25)! IV drips are VERY popular; fishermen coming in from a long night out on the water will often seek IV treatment. Some pharmacists even color it (food coloring usually) because people associate the color with increased potency! Patients hooked up to their IV drips while riding on the back of a moto is a common sight on the streets (I just wish I can grab a picture of that!)

Hmm.. that sure looks like an IV drip…

Khmer Proverbs

1 March 2008 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Another activity for our team retreat aimed at cross-cultural issues is to come up with the most-recalled proverbs from growing up. Though many sayings cross boundaries, the ones best remembered by each group curiously was very telling of their cultural norms and tendencies.

The Germans came up with a list of sayings that depicted a society which valued order, regulation, and punctuality. The Filipino sayings depicted a god-fearing, eternally positive, and family-oriented people. Growing up in the US, adages and mottos which had most to do with taking advantage of opportunity and making money came easily to mind.

Here are some Khmer proverbs, which explain very many things which those of us from the West often frustratingly misunderstand. One which struck me in particular ran along the lines of “the egg cannot fight with or break a rock”, which translated into “might is right”. This explains the submissive nature of our Khmer colleagues to their superiors. They seem frequently impressed when subordinates argue with the boss.

Physical death is better than the death of your reputation (also “family’s reputation”). This explains the collectivist mindset in Asia. Dishonor to your name or your family/group results in being cast off, and that is worse than death.

Dual Translation: (1) Anger begets error; anger begets injury; anger begets waste; and (2) Anger is wrong; anger is wicked; anger is wasteful. This explains the vexing SE Asian trait of never showing emotion, and always smiling even through crises.

The immature rice stock stands erect; the mature stock hangs heavy with seeds.
Those lacking accomplishments (seeds) prop themselves up and boast of themselves (standing erect – a trait of the young). Those heavy with accomplishments have no need for boasting as they have already proven their worth and instead behave with humility (being hunched over – a trait of the elderly). Many sayings show the value of elderly people to society.

Willing to lose is divine; wanting to win is evil. Several beliefs and large-scale tendencies point to the Buddhist belief in accepting fate, so that aiming for achievement is futile.

. . . more proverbs on the Khmer Institute website.

Streetlife: A Man’s World?

24 February 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 1 Comment

Finding a dependable, safe motorbike driver (motodup) is a difficult feat, even in Phnom Penh where an excess of drivers roam the streets, ranging from the unemployed college graduate to new migrants from the provinces. Oum Chanton, a familiar face in Boeng Keng Kang, has been getting her passengers safely to their destination for seven years.

It is an unusual choice of vocation for a woman, but motodup-ing suits Oum Chanton just fine. Occasionally driving a moto as a side job in the year 2000, Chanton discovered that it offered steady wages and flexibility. As a single mother who is also supporting a younger sister and mother, it gradually became the main source of income for her family. She soon found herself driving even up to the day that she gave birth to her youngest son, Chandy, now 5.

Safety issues
This line of work is not without hardship. Chanton’s 14-hour days start at around 6am, seven days a week. Besides full-time exposure to the elements, reckless drivers share the streets. She has to be on constant alert of bag snatchers targeting her passengers. When hired for the night she sometimes waits on dark secluded streets until late.

She often overhears unkind comments from the hordes of territorial male drivers on her routes. They feel she is stealing potential customers from them. There is little regard for her from both her peers and the general population because people are unaccustomed to women having such a job.

At first the difficulties intimidated her, particularly safety issues on the farther routes or late in the night. Now she concentrates on doing her work well, taking care of her passengers by driving carefully. In this way she is able to support her family.

The helmeted Chanton also takes her own safety seriously. “Everyone should use one for safety while riding on a moto,” she says.

No job for a woman?
Asked to describe herself, Chanton replies that she is a strong woman. While the more “appropriate” jobs for women of her skill level, such as waiting or cleaning, have their own hardships, she found them dull. Her earning potential was also greater as a motodup. Experience as a single mother and the difficulties she overcame in her career as a motodup have made her critical of the typical views of women. Strength and independence are assets she feels are not yet appreciated by the more traditional mindsets.

This is the reason for her preference to work in the popular expat district of Boeng Keng Kang. Chanton began driving passengers around when she lived there. Soon it became difficult to keep pace with the escalating cost of living in Phnom Penh, and she was forced to move her family across the Japanese bridge to a small space in Chruy Chungvar.

When she attempted to work in the nearby areas she found that fellow Khmers – even the women – were more comfortable taking the traditional male motodup than going with her. Because foreigners are open to the idea of a female driving a mototaxi she is able to get more business there.

Determined that her two sons, Kunthy and Chandy, have better opportunities, this motivates her through her days. One day when she retires from motodup-ing, she wants to run a breakfast shop or sell items from her house. But this is far in the future as her family often lives from day to day.

Ultimately her goal is very simple. “I want to earn enough to feed my family every day, and to make sure that my sons never have to work as a motodup.”
AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh, March 2008

P.S.
Without a functioning public transportation system, many rely on motobike transportation.

Laos at Night

3 February 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 2 Comments

Bun Awk Phansa (Full Moon), Luang Prabang

The October Full Moon marks the end of the three-month rains. People release small banana-leaf boats decorated with candles, incense and small flowers at the rivers Mekong and Nam Khan. Paper lantern boats are constructed in the monasteries and paraded in a candlelight procession to the rivers.

Royal Palace Museum, Luang Prabang

Night market, Luang Prabang

Pha That Luang, Vientiane

That Dam Stupa, Vientiane

Mortar round candle holder, Phonsavanh, Xhieng Khouang

More photos from Xhieng Khouang in Northern Laos by Keith Kelly

Other posts on Laos:

Laos: A gastronomic adventure

Laos: Regional Getaway

3 February 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 2 Comments

Published in AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh, January 2008
More photos from Northern Laos by K Kelly

Because the world has largely ignored this small country, its way of life, and religious and traditional structures have been preserved, creating an old-world charm. With an inviting reception all around, and life carrying on unhurriedly, Laos is sure to be a memorable destination.

With growing interest in the unchartered northern provinces, especially the protected and just recently accessible areas of Luang Nam Tha and Phongsali, exploring a wider range of destinations is now possible through a responsive and well-coordinated tourism sector. Sleep in a tree-house with the gibbons and zipline to breakfast. Or go on a wildlife trek to sight any of the rare species still living in sustainable existence in one of many protected areas.

Activities for getting to and exploring destinations are also increasing, especially for the nature enthusiasts – such as kayaking, mountain climbing and jungle hiking, spelunking, river cruising. The nationally-sanctioned Green Discovery assures optimal match of visitor with location, paying special attention to leaving as small a footprint as possible.

Charms of an Old Capital
Closer to the beaten track it is still possible to capture the essence of Laos. The old capital Luang Prabang boasts a therapeutic pace, insured against the havoc of progress by its World Heritage branding. It is the perfect city for renting a bike (US$1/day). Markets selling precious stones, textiles and handicrafts intersperse with modern cafés, restaurants and bars. Laos has more than a hundred tribal groups, their traditions artfully exhibited in the newly opened Ethnology museum. Home to numerous wats and architectural treasures from centuries gone by, the city is nestled picturesquely at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khang Rivers. A one-hour Laos-style massage, which focuses on pressure points, costs US$5 at the spas, and the shopping strip quadruples in size when the night bazaars open.

Luang Prabang’s central location affords easy access to a robust sampling of the north’s rough country, histories and cultures. Experience a mahout’s working day–unemployed elephants formerly logging the forests now live in retirement sanctuaries nearby. The elephant camp at Xieng Lom will gladly help you assist them.

A journey down the Mekong to Pak Ou Caves is an experience not just for the caves carved into limestone mountains and filled with Buddha statues. Textile, handicraft, and papermaking villages along the way are usually part of the package when arranging transport. Visitors can watch weavers at the loom or peruse finished products at centrally located shops. Their crafts are often a good bargain compared with those in Luang Prabang.

Tribal Textiles Traditions
Textile production is high in Laos, compared to Thailand and Cambodia where the skill is slowly lost to modern pursuits. While pieces with repeating patterns can be mass-produced, those made by hand are beautifully unique. They record the distinct patterning, colours and techniques of the weaver’s tribal affiliation.

There are over a dozen weaving styles and designs, but patterns most recognisable to the inexpert eye comprise figures of the mythical Naga, phoenix, dragons, elephants, and birds in diamond repetitions. To complete a large piece (around 3m x 0.8m), a weaver labours for a dedicated seven days a week for four weeks. These highly-crafted pieces can fetch prices starting at US$150, depending on the intricacy, even higher in Luang Prabang and much higher from abroad or on the internet.

Remnants of War
Not as popular on the tourist trail is the northeastern province of Xieng Khouang on the Vietnamese border where the war history is evident. A striking view of forested mountains and karst formations greets visitors as the plane descends from the clouds. Sadly, scars left by American bombing campaigns pockmark the landscape. It is estimated that more bombs were dropped in Laos than in Germany and Japan combined during World War II.

As in Cambodia, villagers are forced to put a positive spin on it – “The Americans gave us fish ponds.” War relics are used as stilts for the raised dwellings of the H’mong, as fencings and posts, for grill pits and planters. Cluster bomb units hold candles in hotels and restaurants. One woman in Ban Na Pia makes 700 spoons a day by melting down mortar shells that her husband still finds in the fields. She sells them to visitors who watch her work, for 5,000 kip each. A visit to the scrap metal yards reveals the sheer amount of shell casings and bomb fragments traded in daily. Highly risky, finding these munitions is more lucrative than farming, and many do this full-time.

Plain of Jars
In the same province is the archaeological mystery of the Plain of Jars. Believed to be the third and biggest of five sacred sites – the others are in India, China, Malaysia, and Indonesia – bearing technical similarity to each other, they were left by a nomadic group whose ethnic origins are still unknown.

The ones in Laos are carbon-dated to 2,000 BC and documented in China’s manuscripts of the period. They’re also the largest, with one weighing over six tonnes. Remains found alternately inside or underneath the jars imply that after a first burial inside the jar, the bones were later removed and placed in the ground for a second burial. The jars were then filled with the departed’s earthly goods, to ease transition to the nether world.

Three sites have the greatest concentration of jars. The third and most scenic is accessed via a panoramic 20-minute trek through rice fields, farms and pastures. Patience pays off in the stunning views as well as the opportunity to interact with hill-tribe villagers or glimpse into their lives.

Village-hopping
Xieng Khouang is packed with possibilities for exploring traditional livelihoods. Village leaders allow foreigners a guided tour into their communities, in exchange for regular compensation from the government to keep things tidy. Tour guides are often eager to bring foreigners to their village and to show the ways of life of the various hill-tribes.

If visiting the weaving village of (Ban) Xsang be ready for a lively show of Khmou hospitality. Lao lao and fruit are handed round to buy time for neighbours to drop in with their wares. As many as fifteen weavers cram into the wooden hut with bags of their best textiles, ready to compete for potential purchases. Colourful patterns are tossed on the mat for perusal. Soon the pile is nearly a metre high and the weavers are yelling at one another over whose work is better. With lots of laughter and plenty of lao lao, it’s impossible not to enjoy Laos hospitality.

A Luang Prabang sunset on the Mekong